Mixer Tap Washer Replacement?

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Hi, got a leaking mixer tap from Wickes about 7 years old. I watched some vids on how to replace the rubber washers and understand I will need to get the tap handles off... question is how? (my tap is different from any of the vids I watched)

Pix:

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As you see I tried getting that plastic cap thing off but the Stanley knife was digging into it and damaging it. Any ideas?


Thanks.
 
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You remove the small disc ,and a grub screw below keeps the handle on the valves spline. The valve below is a ceramic 1/4 turn and you will very likely need to replace it in its entirety. Be aware there are dozens of variants of that type of valve.
 
You remove the small disc ,and a grub screw below keeps the handle on the valves spline. The valve below is a ceramic 1/4 turn and you will very likely need to replace it in its entirety. Be aware there are dozens of variants of that type of valve.


Do you have any idea on how to remove that cap without damaging or scratching it? It seems stuck on pretty firm.

And are the valves expensive? I think I got a 10 year guarantee with this tap and still have the box/receipt somewhere.
 
Try pouring near boiling hot water over it. Usually made from plastic and come out quite easily. A wallpaper scraper ,and a little tap by hand. Valves vary in price around the ten to fifteen quid mark.
 
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OK I managed to get it off and it doesn't even look like the valves are damaged? Is it possible something other than these are causing the leak?

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Would it be those red and blue rings that wear out, and if so why not just replace them?
 
Inside the valve there are two ceramic discs. Each have holes in them.when holes line up ( by turning tap on ) water flows to the spout. When not lined up ,no water gets to spout. When water drips from spout ,its a sign that the ceramic discs are not sealing. If the red / blue seals are in good condition its a waste of time replacing them.
 
Ahh I see. I'm looking at valves right now and noticed they have 1/2" and 3/4" - do these measurements refer to the thread width?

I can't seem to find 3/4" (19mm) anywhere on this valve:

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no, they apply to the nominal pipe size of the iron pipe they would have been used on a hundred years ago. Iron pipe is measured by its internal diameter.

Half inch iron pipe is about 3/4" inch external diameter. Modern iron pipes are thinner metal so the internal diameter is more than old iron pipes of the same nominal size, so does not actually correspond to its nominal size.

half inch iron pipe is about the same internal diameter as 15mm copper, and 3/4" iron pipe is about the same internal diameter as 22mm copper.

Modern metric copper pipe is measured by its external diameter. Old imperial copper pipe is measured by its internal diameter, hence half inch is near enough the same as 15mm.

The size of a half-inch BSP nut is not half an inch.

These are curiosities lost in the wanderings of history.

A tap called "half inch" is washbasin or sink sized, a tap called "3/4" " is bath sized. Some modern sink taps are actually smaller.

You will save a lot of mental effort if you just accept that's how it is.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe
 
D'oh, I should've realised that. I know about 1/2 and 3/4 copper pipes just completely disregarded them when measuring up the valves.

So it looks like I will need 20 tooth 3/4" 54mm ceramic valves. Looks like both the hot and cold are leaking too as I isolated each - hot leaking more than cold.

Weird how they lasted only 7 years, hopefully Wickes will keep to their 10 year parts guarantee otherwise I have to buy a cheap replacement on eBay for a fiver.
 
Weird how they lasted only 7 years, hopefully Wickes will keep to their 10 year parts guarantee otherwise I have to buy a cheap replacement on eBay for a fiver.
they are wear & tear items maybe they are not covered by after-sales agreements but ask at wickes they may help :p. Dont leave it to long,the wickes high street stores down old area are being sold off to new landlords or for residential developments :(
 

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