Motorised valve won’t respond to hive

[greenjm90]

Hi - this is driving me nuts as I can’t figure it out so any thoughts welcome.

The hive receiver at the boiler is correctly receiving a signal from the thermostat to turn the heating on - but then… nothing! This definitely isn’t a hive communication issue given (a) the hot water via hives works perfectly; and (b) the receiver light turns on.

It looks as though there are two motorised valves. When the hive hot water turns on, the motorised valve activated and the boiler fires up. But when the hive central heating turns on, the motorised valve does nothing and the boiler doesn’t fire up. I am therefore thinking that the issue is somewhere between the hive receiver and the motorised valve that controls the heating flow. Does that make any sense?

If so, does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about resolving? I’ve checked the wiring - in particular into the hive receiver - and nothing is lose. This had all been working fine until I had my boiler serviced and system power flushed recently.

I’ve attached a picture of set up. Hive receiver is the box with the green lights on the right - and the two motorised valves are (I think) what should be controlled.

Any advice much appreciated!

 

[kidgreen61]

You should be using terminals 3&4 in the Hive receiver for an S plan, sounds as though something is wired wrongly

 

[greenjm90]

You should be using terminals 3&4 in the Hive receiver for an S plan, sounds as though something is wired wrongly

Thanks for your reply! Below is how it is wired - and 3 and 4 are in use. I had also assumed that the wiring is fine because it worked until recently. But maybe it is a wiring issue?!

 

[ianmcd]

Did you have an origional room thermostat befor e you fitted the Hive? if you did that needs to be linked out

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Try moving the lever on the motorised valve, it might be the actuator head that’s failed.

 

[picasso]

Try pressing the central heating override button on the hive receiver and see if the valve opens.

 

[Madrab]

If you are competant with live voltage then get a multimeter out and check that the valve is getting 240v at its brown live when the CH is calling. The bridged output from term 4 should be sending 240v out to the valve, that energises the valve to open. When the valve opens then the grey wire to that valve should be carrying 240V all the time and when the valve open then the orange wire will switch live and send that 240v back to the boiler.

This should all be connecting correctly through the wiring centre.

 

[greenjm90]

Did you have an origional room thermostat befor e you fitted the Hive? if you did that needs to be linked out

This was exactly it - I can’t believe it was so simple! There was an old (non-smart) thermostat - it wasn’t being used but it ran out of batteries over the summer. Given it was still wired in to the wiring centre, if this was off / not calling for heat, the valve wouldn’t open or the boiler fire up. But as soon as new batteries were put into the old thermostat (and turned on to always call for heat), as soon as Hive also called for heat, everything works just fine.

So the long term solution is definitely linking the old thermostat out - not sure how to do this though (lemme know if anyone has any simple instructions) - but at least putting new batteries in it is a short term fix!

 

[ianmcd]

This was exactly it - I can’t believe it was so simple! There was an old (non-start) thermostat - it wasn’t being used but it ran out of batteries over the summer. Given it was still wired in to the wiring centre, if this was off / not calling for heat, the valve wouldn’t open or the boiler fire up. But as soon as new batteries were put into the old thermostat (and turned on to always call for heat), as soon as Hive also called for heat, everything works just fine.

So the long term solution is definitely linking the old thermostat out - not sure how to do this though (lemme know if anyone has any simple instructions) - but at least putting new batteries in it is a short term fix!

very easy, as it is battery powered you only have two wires, just join them together in a terminal strip and insulate and remove the old thermostat, if you are happy to leave the old stat just put both wires into the same terminal, for a professional solution trace the two wires to the wiring centre and link them out all solutions will work though