Mouldy Bathroom

Joined
24 Oct 2011
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Angus
Country
United Kingdom
Hi everyone. Got a mouldy bathroom thats been bugging me for a while and its time to fix it. Im not much cope at diy (except electrical) but enough is enough. I have a m8 who is a painter & decorator and hes been promising for nearly a year to do it but still nothing as of yet.

I kinda have a plan but i just want to check with those who have a bit more experience incase im missing any fundamentals etc.

Okay so the roof, tops of cupboards, windowsills and other wooden framework is mouldy. Additionally the windowsill is peeling and so needs totally redone. What ive got so far is some sugarwater to clean, white eggshell paint for the walls, masking tape for neatness, sandpaper for the window sill and maybe the woodwork as well and then assorted paintbrushes a roller and dustsheets.

First question is can i use the white eggshell paint for the doors and windows? Second how long should i wait after i have cleaned down the surfaces with the sugarwater? Third do i need more than 1 coat of the eggshell on the offending walls? Fourth more than 1 coat on the woodwork (regardless of what paint i need to use for it). Fifth is there any strategy for getting a decent finish (other than experience of course), is it a kind of less is more thing or do you just slap dash?

Thanks in advance for your time and i look forward to reading your replies.
 
Sponsored Links
You can use sugar soap to clean grime from the walls but for the mould you will need to use a mild bleach solution or fungicidal wash. This will kill the mould spores and prevent them returning, providing you have done as JohnD says and solved the cause of it. Ensure you rinse off the sugar soap, bleach and fungicide (unless instructions tell you different) with clean water and once dry you can begin painting.

Good ventilation is usually what is required in a bathroom so you may need to install an extractor fan and/or leave the window open after showering/bathing until all steam has escaped to prevent the mould re-occuring.

Most acrylic eggshell paints are suitable for use on walls, ceilings and woodwork but oil based eggshells are not (usually) used on walls and ceilings. You will need to lightly sand the woodwork - just enough to remove any sheen - before painting it.

If you need to strip the sill back to bare timber you will need to apply knotting solution to any knots in the wood before priming/undercoating it. (Some primers seal the knots without the need for seperate knotting solution.)

As for how many coats, that will depend on how good your application is and how well the eggshell covers the existing paint. Cut in around the edges with a 2"-3" brush and apply a nice even coat to the walls with your roller before 'laying off' by gently rolling in one direction. As you say, the best finish comes through experience but bathroom walls are usually small enough for most people to get decent results.

Good luck! ;)
 
Sugar water is way too sticky. I reckon good old Vim or Ajax powder is best for cleaning mould. Then sandpaper. Then sort out your ventilation.
 
Sponsored Links
As said increasing the ventilation is the key to success, also there is a paint system called Dulux Trade mouldshield Fungicidal Eggshell that can greatly inhibit the formation of mould and fungal growth. It can also be applied to both walls and woodwork.

Dec
 
thought i had email notification on this thread. didnt realise there was so many replies. Anyway...

The ventilation in the bathroom should be good enough but after 4 years it seems to have built up. The window gets left open and the extractor fan is on whilst the shower is in use. Not really any more room to do anything else anyway. The paint i have is not oil based so that is good news, that means i can do it all with the 1 tin. Less hassle :D

As far as washing i will see if i can get my hands on some fungicide type stuff. My only worry was putting something else on the wall that would interfere with the paint and compromise it. Sugar water is nice and neutral afaik hence why i chose it.

I guess ill just have to get on with the prep work first and then i can take it from there. If it doesnt work i can always do it again... Nothing ventured nothing gained. Thanks.
 
if you have got mould and fungus, then you have a damp problem, and need to fix it first.

you have to use the extractor until all the moisture is gone. This includes the water in the shower tray and the wet towels.

A typical extractor is about 20W and will run for 50 hours for 12p so don't be overcome with frugality.

It is an advantage to have the extractor start every time the light is switched on, with a 20-minute overrun. This will also keep it fresher.

Opening a window while the extractor is on prevents it creating suction to draw the damp air out.
 
You need to wash down with a fungicide solution then apply an anti-mould acrylic paint. Make sure you prep the woodwork prior to this.

can you be a bit more specific please?
 
can you be a bit more specific please?

If I felt it was necessary I would.

I don't remember elrobbo82 asking the question with regards to bathroom mould.

If you feel my answer is not descriptive enough then please feel free to contribute as I feel that

can you be a bit more specific please?

is rather non helpful or is this elrobbo82 trying to disrupt the forum again?
 
RMS
i'm not having a go just wondering what kind of anti mould acrylic paint you are suggesting i.e brand and finish. this information could be of use to the op.

don't forget this is a forum for discussion which is what i am entering into not to disrupt anything.

thanks
 
RMS
i'm not having a go

That'll be a first for you.

just wondering what kind of anti mould acrylic paint you are suggesting i.e brand and finish. this information could be of use to the op.

I'm sure the op can determine this or ask if this is an issue. Or if you feel this is so very important then no one is stopping you from making a suggestion?

don't forget this is a forum for discussion which is what i am entering into not to disrupt anything.

thanks

Going on your past record thats very hard to believe.
 
RMS

calm down dear. seems you get het up quite easily when asked a simple question, why?

in these situations i tend to use glidden anti mould vinyl for the walls after treatment with dulux fungicidal solution. i would then paint the wood work with an undercoat and gloss as any mould spores are easily wiped away due to the nature of the gloss.

this is just what i have done in the past in numerous occasions with excellent results. nice to see other views and products though.
 
RMS

calm down dear. seems you get het up quite easily when asked a simple question, why?

Hence the reason I felt and think you were and are on your usual disruptive mission.

in these situations i tend to use glidden anti mould vinyl for the walls after treatment with dulux fungicidal solution. i would then paint the wood work with an undercoat and gloss as any mould spores are easily wiped away due to the nature of the gloss.

Congratulations, your first informative post in this thread. :LOL:
 
thanks

RMS your info was also informative and a good link was provided.

i have used several different types of mould inhibiting paints in my career. you can also buy an additive that you can add to normal paints that can protect against mould. johnstones anti mould acrylic is also a good product for walls and ceilings as i would not recommend this for wood work as it is basically emulsion.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top