mouning ballast (HQI light ) with suspended ceiling??

[JayPurcell]

Hi guys,

just wondered what the best way to mount some ballasts/gear box/gear tray for metal halide lighting with a suspended ceiling?

Im having a suspended ceiling fitted in my unit at some point soon and im not sure if you can just lay the ballast for these fittings on a ceiling tile next to the actual light fitting.

Theres going to be about 16 of these fittings used with a ballast to its going to be a ballache to hang each one off the ceiling.

Let me know the general consensus on what most would do!

Oh btw, the ballast probably weigh 1 kg they are a NL150GB

they can be found on the below link

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GB150W-Ge...mote-Mounting-150w-Metal-Halide-/320858967227

Thanks guys!

 

[Spark123]

I'd check the weight - if the ceiling is made up of the cardboard type tiles they are not very good at load bearing at all.

 

[JayPurcell]

Im thinking they are too heavy for the tiles but struggling to think the best way to get around it. Obviously being an electrical item, its not like i can just do what i want with them.

 

[333rocky333]

In retail they usually cut a peice of MDF or ply the same size as the tile , this transfers the weight of the fitting and box onto the grid, also the control box sits on it.

You should reallly these days be using electronic ballasts and usually there lighter than the actual light fitting.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/350610293110?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&cbt=y

The ceiling fitter should take the weight of magnetic ballasts into account as sometimes theres insufficient hangers for the extra weight

 

[JayPurcell]

In retail they usually cut a peice of MDF or ply the same size as the tile , this transfers the weight of the fitting and box onto the grid, also the control box sits on it.

You should reallly these days be using electronic ballasts and usually there lighter than the actual light fitting.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/350610293110?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&cbt=y

The ceiling fitter should take the weight of magnetic ballasts into account as sometimes theres insufficient hangers for the extra weight

Wow, electronic ballasts, never even knew they existed until you just said that! They look like they cost a lot more. I would have probably looked toward those If i hadnt have already bought 24 x older style ones. What are the pros and cons of new ones vs old ones out of interest?

I was thinking of spanning the grid to transfer the weight onto the grid. Its just I have no clue how much weight these kind of grids can take?

A few extra cables from the purlins above should suffice I guess. I will speak to my ceiling fitter later in the week and see what he feels comfortable with!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What are the pros and cons of new ones vs old ones out of interest?

PROS:

Flicker-free startup

No strobing

More efficient


CONS:

You haven't bought them.

 

[333rocky333]

Also speak to your electrician regarding wiring them.
multiple amounts of them magnetic units have a habit of tripping mcbs on start up.

The main advantage of electronic ones is the weight and lower running cost and the fact they should shut down at end of lamp life which is good when the lights are not easily accessable to relamp imediately.

start up times are about the same for both types really

Hopefully the ones you brought have timed ignitors these also shut the unit down when lamp is end of life.


Non timed ignitors tend to keep trying to restrike a failed lamp and can sometimes burn out or cause radio interference to nearby equipment as well as an annoying buzz, they are primarily used where the lamps can be replaced soon after lamp failure

THIS DONT HAPPEN OFTEN so dont panic
The poor thing was trying to restrike a failed lamp for a while i presume

Untitled

• 333rocky333
• 8 May 2010
• 2

The magnetic ballasts are also more critical of the supply voltage and if too low can be prone to sometimes extinquish the lamp and restrike, although the ballast may have tappings between 220 and 250 volts to compensate.
whereas the electronic ones have a wider tolerance sometimes lower than 200volt

I have known the ballasts to be suspended on there own
single jackchain this will keep all the weight of the ceiling, though you really need to ensure the tiles can support the weight of the fittings as in say a roof leak you dont want the fitting crashing to the floor.

 

[JayPurcell]

Also speak to your electrician regarding wiring them.
multiple amounts of them magnetic units have a habit of tripping mcbs on start up.

The main advantage of electronic ones is the weight and lower running cost and the fact they should shut down at end of lamp life which is good when the lights are not easily accessable to relamp imediately.

start up times are about the same for both types really

Hopefully the ones you brought have timed ignitors these also shut the unit down when lamp is end of life.


Non timed ignitors tend to keep trying to restrike a failed lamp and can sometimes burn out or cause radio interference to nearby equipment as well as an annoying buzz, they are primarily used where the lamps can be replaced soon after lamp failure

THIS DONT HAPPEN OFTEN so dont panic
The poor thing was trying to restrike a failed lamp for a while i presume

Untitled

• 333rocky333
• 8 May 2010
• 2

The magnetic ballasts are also more critical of the supply voltage and if too low can be prone to sometimes extinquish the lamp and restrike, although the ballast may have tappings between 220 and 250 volts to compensate.
whereas the electronic ones have a wider tolerance sometimes lower than 200volt

I have known the ballasts to be suspended on there own
single jackchain this will keep all the weight of the ceiling, though you really need to ensure the tiles can support the weight of the fittings as in say a roof leak you dont want the fitting crashing to the floor.

Thanks very much for the extensive reply. The ballast ive got are the latest carnation of the magnetic type so hopefully they will be reasonable in their performance.

The lights are not to be used for area illumination, more like spot lights for tasks completed on vehicles. Its similar to a mclaren paintshop/batcave!

I would have thought there would never be a time where I would have all 18 on at once. There will probably only be 4 lit at one time. I have a 12 way light switch to control all zones. Much better than running them all at once and expecting my MCB not to trip!

Thanks for the advice!