Mounting a diy pullup bar question

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Surprisingly, the search didn't bring up much for pullup bar. I'm more familiar with plumbing and metalwork than wood so I'm doubting myself here. Looking for some advice please.

I got some iron pipe to diy a pullup bar as the doors in my tenement flat are too wide for the leverage style door gyms.

I'm trying to mount this

To here


The frame behind the 2x4 is the same height as the 2x4 but about half of it is window frame as shown from the other side of the doorway.


The flanges will screw in on the verticals of the doorframe.


I wasn't going to use a 2x4 then thought it would be good as a simple hangboard to build grip strength for climbing so got stuck on the idea.

I was thinking of using 4 6x100 screws (multipurpose single threaded ones) on the 2x4 on the lower third of it at even spacing, 3 6x100 screws and 1 6x50 lag bolt per flange.

Upon looking it it, I thought 100mm screws might be too long and realised it best to ask for advice before committing.


I guess my questions are
  1. Is this a stupid idea?
  2. Are 100mm screws too long? (the shop was out of 80mm screws)
  3. Should I do anything different?
 
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While the wood may be fine, the little screws holding the piping itself to the wood are what's going to pull out, leaving you flat on your arris.

Can you make these screws even bigger, perhaps bolts going through the wood?
 
Each pipe flange is about 4mm thick with 4 screw holes per flange. 3 screws were going to be 6x100mm, which would go though the flange, 2x4, and into the doorframe. Only the 4th was a 6x50 lag screw, which would just barely go into the doorframe. I thought this was needed at the top of the flange to stop any rotational pull force, while the other three were for sheer strength.

The shop only had 8x80 lag screws at the next length, which don't fit in the flange.

Should I just forget the lag screw and just use 6x100's all round?
 
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Ah I thought they were smaller screws and you were using the 100mm screw just for the wood.
The important one will be the top one as thats going to take the most pulling forces.
 
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Will the 6x100 multipurpose screw be enough then or is a lag/coach screw recommended?
 
Doesn't seem like a great arrangement to me. You are going to put a lot of twisting force into the 4x2, which is in turn pulling on the frame. I would expect to see cracks develop in time.
If you cut your 4x2 in half, and screwed it vertically to each side, with fixings into the frame nearest the top of each piece, then you could screw your bar flanges to the bottom of each piece. At least that way you'd be putting more vertical load into the frame rather than a twisting force. You could still add your horizontal hang board if you wanted to.
 
Could you get away with drilling through the door frame on each side of the opening? Right the way through?
You could drill through the centre of the pipe flange and fit either long bolts or studding right through the timber. Then a large penny washer on the outside .
 
Doesn't seem like a great arrangement to me. You are going to put a lot of twisting force into the 4x2, which is in turn pulling on the frame. I would expect to see cracks develop in time.
If you cut your 4x2 in half, and screwed it vertically to each side, with fixings into the frame nearest the top of each piece, then you could screw your bar flanges to the bottom of each piece. At least that way you'd be putting more vertical load into the frame rather than a twisting force. You could still add your horizontal hang board if you wanted to.

I think I understand what you mean but with my limited knowledge, the 4x2 is just a spacer. Would there be a significant twisting force on the 4x2 when the 100mm screws go through the flange and into the frame as well? I'm only 70kg and I don't intend to do any sudden or jerky moves on it for fear of stress cracks.

If I understand your suggestion correctly with having the 4x2 vertical on either side, would the flanges be mounted to the 4x2 only or all the way through into the frame as well?

Could you get away with drilling through the door frame on each side of the opening? Right the way through?
You could drill through the centre of the pipe flange and fit either long bolts or studding right through the timber. Then a large penny washer on the outside .

Drilling all the way through would do more damage than I'd like to the frame and not look very nice, which would upset the missus!
 
Well using the 4 x 2 as a spacer, and with the additional offset of the bar, you've got quite a long lever on your screws, which could lead to loosening/slippage/bending.
My suggestion was to use vertical 4x2, with solid fixings towards the top end, and then the flange only needs to screw into the 4x2 at the bottom end with some nice chunky screws.
But maybe it's all overkill and perhaps your suggestion would be fine. I just don't think I'd do it that way.
 
I agree with the suggestion of cutting the timber in half and putting it vertically.
Also it will be better with long coach bolts, at least 1 all the way through (top holes on the bar) with big washers the other side.
You can paint it all white.

BTW, you own this property yes?
 
Well using the 4 x 2 as a spacer, and with the additional offset of the bar, you've got quite a long lever on your screws, which could lead to loosening/slippage/bending.
My suggestion was to use vertical 4x2, with solid fixings towards the top end, and then the flange only needs to screw into the 4x2 at the bottom end with some nice chunky screws.
But maybe it's all overkill and perhaps your suggestion would be fine. I just don't think I'd do it that way.

I get you now, I'd prefer overkill (within reason) than risk cracking the doorframe and breaking the glass. What screws would you recommend?

My only concern would be that the flange would tear out the 4x2 but I imagine it would be gradual and not sudden failure since I don't plan on swinging from it, so hopefully I'd notice beforehand. What screws would you recommend?

And yes, I do own the property, still don't want to be drilling all the way through doorframes though.
 
I'd be thinking about using verticals, but maybe they don't need to be as thick as 45mm. The trouble is the screws will tend to bend as you hang. If you used say 25mm, the screws into the frame will be less likely to bend. Or you could fix a hanging plate to the back of the timber at the top and hook that onto a single chunky coach screw.
Then I think I'd use M5 bolts to fix the flanges to the timber by using a flat bit to drill out a recess on the back to recess the bolt head and washer.
You need to fix into a good part of the frame and at least 50mm into sound timber. This might mean your verticals aren't actually vertical.
 
are the walls on either side brick?

Sorry for the late reply, been a busy week. My house is around 120 years old and the doorway is original but the previous owner removed the door. I'm pretty sure the walls are brick on either side.

I'd be thinking about using verticals, but maybe they don't need to be as thick as 45mm. The trouble is the screws will tend to bend as you hang. If you used say 25mm, the screws into the frame will be less likely to bend. Or you could fix a hanging plate to the back of the timber at the top and hook that onto a single chunky coach screw.
Then I think I'd use M5 bolts to fix the flanges to the timber by using a flat bit to drill out a recess on the back to recess the bolt head and washer.
You need to fix into a good part of the frame and at least 50mm into sound timber. This might mean your verticals aren't actually vertical.

I get what you mean but maybe it's my lack of knowledge with wood but I'd have concerns with the flanges breaking out of a 25mm vertical if I'm recessing out the back for bolts.

For hangers, I assume you don't mean a heavy duty picture frame style hanger, would one of the below do the job?

 

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