Moving Alarm PIR sensors to install coving

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I'm looking to install coving into a couple of rooms in the house but the PIR sensors for the house alarm are bang in the corner where the coving would go. I surmise that I'd have to move the sensors below the coving but I'm not sure how long the wires are coming from through the wall.

If the wires are too short when I take the PIR off, could I make them longer by extending them? Is there a specific type of wire\cable required to do this?

Cheers,
 
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Sparky, you forgot to mention the new type being introduced Jan/Feb 2019.

Also it must be soldered and crimped, just to be sure.




upload_2018-1-22_13-5-9.png
 
yes alarm cable and there are lots of different ways of joining cables, hopefully there been enough slack left for you.

You may want to find out what fuse the PIR@s are on and get a spare, or at least remove the 12V+ to the PIR's panel end so you don't short them and blow the aux fuse whilst relocating them.
 
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yes alarm cable and there are lots of different ways of joining cables, hopefully there been enough slack left for you.

You may want to find out what fuse the PIR@s are on and get a spare, or at least remove the 12V+ to the PIR's panel end so you don't short them and blow the aux fuse whilst relocating them.


Alarm cable ....


Sparky, you forgot to mention the new type being introduced Jan/Feb 2019.

Also it must be soldered and crimped, just to be sure.




View attachment 135140

All useful replies. Thanks guys.
 
A further question if someone can answer.

This is a Texecom Veritas R8 Series Alarm system - probably about 10 years old I think. It has two control panel (keypad types) and a white box which I believe to be a junction box of some sort. How do I go about disabling the Anti Tamper on this thing (I assume when I take the PIR down off the wall its going to sound the siren)

The manual doesn't seem to have instructions for disabling the anti tamper.


Again - cheers for any replies.
 
Have you got engineer code ?
If not take cover pir enter code to stop noise
Re fit cover on pir after you have moved pir and then enter code and press rest.
If all clear job done
 
Have you got engineer code ?
If not take cover pir enter code to stop noise
Re fit cover on pir after you have moved pir and then enter code and press rest.
If all clear job done


I don't think I have the engineer code. It may be written down in one of the manuals that the previous owners left behind. If I do have it it, how do I use it?

Failing that I'll carry out the steps above. Cheers.
 
Have you got engineer code ?
If not take cover pir enter code to stop noise
Re fit cover on pir after you have moved pir and then enter code and press rest.
If all clear job done


Right so I managed to get round to trying the code the previous owners left me. It seems the engineer code and the user code are both the same (1234) I can get into the programming menu fine with this code :)

However, the manual isn't clear on how to silence the anti tamper (For when I remove the PIR) Other alarms I have owned have had a 'Service Mode' or similar that you can enable when you are doing such work.

Is anti tamper disabled when in the programming menu or do I have to tell (Key press sequence) it to disable the anti tamper? I really don't want to pee the neighbors by setting the alarm off so want to try doing this as quietly as possible

Cheers again for everyones input.
 
Engineer and user code can't be the same ... just take off the covers then put your code in to stop the INTERNAL sounder only
Then reset when it's back together
 
Engineer and user code can't be the same ... just take off the covers then put your code in to stop the INTERNAL sounder only
Then reset when it's back together

I'm sure they are you know...might be wrong but: - 1234 > Enter to arm\disarm. 1234 > Prog and I get into the programming menu - all bottom leds lit?

Ah - so the internal sounder will go when it's tampered with? Not the external. Ok Thanks. I'll give it a go.

Cheers
 
Just an update. All sorted.

The internal sounder went off when I took off the cover :) and I have moved the PIR a few inches down the wall. Luckily, there was little bit of 'slack' tucked away in wall so I just pulled it through. I had a massive crater to fill where the previous screw holes (The plaster just crumbled away when I took the screw out) were so instead of screwing the PIR back on further down the wall, I used high tack sticky tabs. Not really ideal but my feeling is that the wall will crumble if I try to drill it again :confused: Hopefully the adhesive tabs will keep the PIR in position.

Thanks everyone who replied. :)
 
............................................................ :confused: Hopefully the adhesive tabs will keep the PIR in position.
After years of using double sided pads I have come to the very strong conclusion that these pads, no matter who makes them are rubbish.

Ok on horizontal surfaces for L/R movement but on vertical surfaces useless. First they begin to slide down then off at an angle leaving a sticky trail, you'll then have to drill.

Use a very small masonary drill 4 or 5mm should do the trick. Improvise with plugs, broken matches are good.
 

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