Moving electric oven & wall replaster

[mark.carline]

I am wanting to move our current electric oven around 1m away from is current position which means extending the current cable. The cable also currently goes down the wall on the outside via some cable clips tacked to the wall (which looks very ugly). The old lime plaster is falling off the wall and so we're going to strip off all the plaster and get it replastered (ie proper base coat wet plaster & skim, not plasterboard etc).

The electrics in the house are reasonable modern (the current cable is black and red) and it was done just before the new colours came in.

I have some spare unused electric cooker cable thats exactly the same colours and thickness and wondered:

1) Can I join the cooker cable using an appropriate connector in the floor boards upstairs and then feed a new cable from that down the wall to a 35mm metal back box and cooker cable outlet plate ?
2) Am I ok to hide the cooker cable (covered by an appropriate plastic trunking cable) behind the plaster ?

Does this have any part p implications ?

 

[jj4091]

Do you mean a free standing cooker or a built in oven. If it is the former you should have the cooker connected via a cooker connection unit to a cooker switch fed from your consumer unit, a cooker switch usually requires a 47mm back box. If it was done relatively recently as you say then that is how I would have expected it to be done. If it is the latter does it have it's own supply or is it a spur off the ring main?

 

[mark.carline]

Its a free standing oven.

It does have its own separate cable from the fuse box which terminates into a oven switch box that has a deep platic back box that was screwed to the wall.

No ring main involved

 

[Steve]

Its a free standing oven.

Really? A free standing OVEN? Standing there all by itself?

The term is COOKER. An oven is a single cavity with a door. A COOKER is the above with HOBS on.

The whole COOKER/OVEN word misuse serves to confuse people.

 

[securespark]

A COOKER is the above with HOBS on.

Same to you with HOBS on!

 

[mark.carline]

by the way i am now trying to work out what size cable I currently have installed - i guess its either 6mm or 10mm.

Looking closely at it the red cable seems to have 7 copper cores that seem to be the same size as a single copper lighting cable (old red / black size).

Is this 6mm ?

If so could this limit my choice of new oven / cooker in future ?

 

[securespark]

Depends how you design the circuit.

Some here allow diversity - search for that term.

Others design the circuit to carry flc.

 

[mark.carline]

b.t.w the cooker has its own separate 40Amp MCB

I have just found this wiki page but it doesnt mention 6mm:

//www.diynot.com/pages/el/el004.php

My main concern is that I dont want to have to chip out a cable run for a new cooker cable in the future as we might replace the current 7kw cooker/oven with a new one.

 

[jj4091]

Do you want to move your cooker away from or closer to your consumer unit, if it is closer to, then you should be able to do it using the existing cable & the method I described earlier. If it is further away then you should consult a spark as you do not appear to be clear about what is required & as you suspect it will be notifiable work & you cannot use inaccessible junction boxes.

 

[mark.carline]

Do you want to move your cooker away from or closer to your consumer unit

It would actually make the cable shorter but I might need to join it under the floor boards upstairs (they would be screwed down for future access if needed).

So heres my plan:

1) Join the existing cable under the floor boards upstairs using a 40a junction box.
2) Feed cable down wall into a 45mm back box with one of these switches in it:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A431904&ts=93143&id=42524
3) Feed down wall even more into one of these cable outlets:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/45A-Cooker-Ou...ryZ41499QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

does this seem ok ?

ALSO I have two more questions:

a) I also wondered – Does the whole cable run *have* to come down the wall in a straight line ?. Just that I would prefer the switch to be located around 1 meter to the right and 50 cm above where the cable outlet is going ? Only way to achive this is to bring the cable down the wall (approx 1.5m in length) in a straight line and then take a feed from that (approx 1m in length) at around 7:30 (clock face) direction from the switch.

b) Instead of the 45a switch can I use one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A431905&ts=04783&id=74210
or:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A431906&ts=04816&id=17157
I take it that the power for the plug is taken from the cooker cable and it doesnt need a separate 13a ring main cable ???