my first time using down lights

[electricalImprover26]

Geez why are down lighters so complicated. I have NEVER installed them before.

My first question I have a kitchen How many lights do I need.
If there is a trade rule of thumb I would like to know about it.

Also AFAIK the transformers feeding the lights don't have loops like ceiling roses. Why not ? What happened to the kiss principle? Anyway I was thinking using a choc box then have t&e loose so it can go through the hole. I can them easily attach transformer then stick it back up. Also allows for servicing in case the transformer dies on me. The area am trying to cover is 4m deep by 3m wide

Untitled

• electricalImprover26
• 4 Dec 2013
• 1

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Geez why are down lighters so complicated. I have NEVER installed them before.

They are a pain, especially if you need to make access to install cables.

My first question I have a kitchen How many lights do I need.
If there is a trade rule of thumb I would like to know about it.

The number will depend on the size of the room. Generally a distance of between each lamp of 300mm-1200mm and somewhere between 600mm-1000mm from wall perimeters. Your kitchen layout may dictate as will the location of joists, noggins, pipework, other electrical cables and any other obstructions in the ceiling void.

Also AFAIK the transformers feeding the lights don't have loops like ceiling roses. Why not ? What happened to the kiss principle?

yourself, The manufacture of light fittings and accessories, general don't care about the difficulty posed to the installer.
This something you need to get round

Anyway I was thinking using a choc box then have t&e loose so it can go through the hole. I can them easily attach transformer then stick it back up. Also allows for service in case the transformer dies on me. The area am trying to cover is 4m deep by 3m wide

http://www.dusklights.co.uk/technical-advice/fitting-downlights.html
All joints will require to be accessible for maintenance, inspection and testing. So what ever you use provide for that.
There are number of connection units that can be used varying in prices, choc box and connector strip are the cheapest method. Remember that connection must be enclosed. so accidental contact to conductors can be made and they should have grip for the cable. Also you may require to drill through or notch joist(try to avoid the latter). There are regulations regarding this that must be complied to.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:route

Also any newly buried cable within walls will need to be routed in permitted safe zones.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

And very likely to require 30mA RCD protection, chases within solid wall also are regulated by building controls. Take a look at building regulation approved document Part A also I would be looking at Part B, C and L.
All can be found here.
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/buildingregulations/approveddocuments/

Downlights lovely..............

PS. The lamp and transformers require ventilation, so don't surround with thermal insulation.

 

[Gutterball]

don't use transformers they are a pain in the behind have a look at these http://www.ledhut.co.uk/spot-light-fittings.html they are pricy to start but will save you in the long run.
use these to connect them http://lineproducts.co.uk/shopatline/

 

[Steve]

the number you need is also dependant on the type of lamp. LED, CFL, halogen?

Don't use halogen, I recommend LEDs and have them in my own kitchen, but don't pay less than £8 each or they will be carp.

 

[ericmark]

The junction box design depends on rest of installation many do not have cable clamps so the cable needs cleating so the box can't be drawn through any hole as fixed to the beam. So maintenance free boxes with cable clamps able to be pulled through the hole to work on are likely best option.

Often the switch back box doubles as a junction box. Before now I have used one odd surface mount 2D unit as junction box for all other lights one has to use some ingenuity.

Number of lights does not so much depend on size of room but how the room is decorated. White walls and ceiling with lamps aimed at them bouncing the light will need far less lumins then a dark kitchen.

Today with LED, CFL, and cold cathode even induction lights low voltage (230) is far more flexible than extra low voltage (12) and the ELV would only be used by me in areas like bath rooms where LV is not permitted.

The lumin was suppose to make it easy but look at a room with 300 lumin CFL and 300 lumin LED and the LED looks so much brighter clearly the standard has a massive error.

Tungsten is a pain. They are very voltage dependent the switch mode power supplies and ELV does help but when they fail often they take the power supply with them. I am not into energy saving but I am into not having to change a bulb a week so to me LED is the way to go.