I am currently planning a new kitchen. Due to the layout of my flat (kitchen opens out into living room) I have had an idea. Instead of a permanently situated bar between the two (as is currently the case), I could have a fold-down worktop for munching-on purposes, that is hidden away in a custom-built wall-cupboard when not in use. Here is what I mean. Figure 2 should be "in use", not "stowed"
As you can see, the worktop folds up into two sections. Worktop 1 would be attached to the wall, and when folded down would be supported primarily by the hinges attaching it to the wall (sturdy masonry), with a "bump stop" provided by the static worktop it would also rest on at that end. There would be a wooden baton to space it far enough away from the wall to allow it to hinge upwards properly. Worktop 2 would be supported by a detachable leg assembly at it's far end, and there would be two slide across "bolts" of wood on the underside, that would hold the middle joint rigid.
What my question is, is what type of screws will provide a strong enough "bite" into a laminate worktop material to do this? Unfortunately my budget can't stretch to hardwood block. As I see it there are two approaches:
1) drive the screws into the end grain, using at least 3" screws to avoid the material crumbling due to a concentrated strain on it.
2) drive the screws in from the underside of the worktops. This would mean screws of 1 1/4" absolute maximum, but hopefully would be less likely to knacker the material.
At each joint I would use 3 hinges, 3 screw holes in each side of each hinge. If I was driving into the end grain I think I would only use 2 screw holes on each side. Or would piano hinges be better?
As you can see, the worktop folds up into two sections. Worktop 1 would be attached to the wall, and when folded down would be supported primarily by the hinges attaching it to the wall (sturdy masonry), with a "bump stop" provided by the static worktop it would also rest on at that end. There would be a wooden baton to space it far enough away from the wall to allow it to hinge upwards properly. Worktop 2 would be supported by a detachable leg assembly at it's far end, and there would be two slide across "bolts" of wood on the underside, that would hold the middle joint rigid.
What my question is, is what type of screws will provide a strong enough "bite" into a laminate worktop material to do this? Unfortunately my budget can't stretch to hardwood block. As I see it there are two approaches:
1) drive the screws into the end grain, using at least 3" screws to avoid the material crumbling due to a concentrated strain on it.
2) drive the screws in from the underside of the worktops. This would mean screws of 1 1/4" absolute maximum, but hopefully would be less likely to knacker the material.
At each joint I would use 3 hinges, 3 screw holes in each side of each hinge. If I was driving into the end grain I think I would only use 2 screw holes on each side. Or would piano hinges be better?