My home-made table saw

[richard7761]

Don't worry, I am very safety concious. :c)

I have a motor and gear arragement from a circular saw. It's soft start and I can adjust speed. It is rated 1450W.

The blade that came with the saw is 210mm and 12T, max 7000rpm. (dia 210 x 5/8" 2,6 x 12T)

In order to clean cut regular wood to 100mm depth I'd need a blade 260mm diameter. They probably don't make blades 260mm dia., so I think I may need to go for a 300mm dia. blade.

Will the motor cope?

Will choice of blade teeth help?

Thanks.

 

[big-all]

no it will be overloaded
the motor is designed for the blade size
also bigger blades are designed for bigger arbors and are thicker3.2mm[3.175]

260 is a fairly common size
http://www.axminster.co.uk/festool-festool-260mm-saw-blades-prod852964/

 

[richard7761]

The motor is designed to cope cutting up to 75mm. I'm pushing it to cut 100mm.

This is for cutting two 6 foot lengths of wood. Then I'd go back to original blade, mostly.

The issue is probably not heat overloads, but whether the blade would stall.

 

[richard7761]

no it will be overloaded
the motor is designed for the blade size
also bigger blades are designed for bigger arbors and are thicker3.2mm[3.175]

260 is a fairly common size
http://www.axminster.co.uk/festool-festool-260mm-saw-blades-prod852964/[/QUOTE]

Okay, gotcha, especially about the thicker cut. Blade thickness not same.

I think my original kerf is 2.6mm.

But, they do 2.6mm blades 260mm diameter.

So, it's the bore, mine is 15mm, I think 5/8".

 

[richard7761]

Actually, the only way might be try a 260mm blade. See what gives. I'd have to make fit for 30mm bore though.

I think a percentage here would say, it will cut, a percentage, won't cut.

I'm only cutting those 2, 6 foot lengths of wood. Probably crucial information.

 

[big-all]

cut half depth and flip and cut the other half
to reduce the bore you use a reducing washer
a rip saw has fewer teeth in contact with the timber around 40% on a full depth cut or 10 teeth
a table saw blade will tend to have twice as many teeth in contact so much much more drag

you also have the safety angle requiring a riving knife and a crown guard
also the need to turn the power off safely and easily

 

[Porque223]

I think a percentage here would say, it will cut, a percentage, won't cut.

You can probably resolve this from where you sit.
Table saw makers may post motor hp and blade size on the Web and graphing these numbers in a scatter plot will show you how far from the best fit line your particular design falls.

 

[richard7761]

Yep:

You seem to get:

1050W: 55mm
1200W: 66mm
1400W: 70mm
1450W: 75mm
1800W: 85mm

But, there is quite a lot of variation.

If one of my jobs is to cut just two 6 foot pieces of 100mm depth, of soft wood, then the thing is to see what happens.

Probably a proper rating would be about 2500W for a 100m depth of cut. So, I'm chancing it buying the blade. :c)

Or, flip wood. I was put off that a bit on that by what was said in a previous posting.

Or, saw by hand. :c)

 

[richard7761]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290739459070?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

That should do for ripping wood, if I go for a 260mm blade.

 

[RF Lighting]

One of my customers cut two of his fingers off on his home made table saw.

The surgeons were unable to reattach them.

It's ok though as he was very safety conscious too.

 

[Porque223]

One of my customers cut two of his fingers off on his home made table saw.

The surgeons were unable to reattach them.

It's ok though as he was very safety conscious too.

My hand surgeon charged between $1K and $4K per hour in 1994 dollars. The insurance company stiffed me $12K because I didn't get approval beforehand.
It was about 100 stitches and several month of physical therapy (physical terrorists?).
My hand works, sort of, and now I always use the blade guard!

Believe me, a shotgun wound to the palm is worse, along with cement mixer injuries, along with degloving injuries.

 

[Porque223]

Yep:

You seem to get:

1050W: 55mm
1200W: 66mm
1400W: 70mm
1450W: 75mm
1800W: 85mm

But, there is quite a lot of variation.

If one of my jobs is to cut just two 6 foot pieces of 100mm depth, of soft wood, then the thing is to see what happens.

Probably a proper rating would be about 2500W for a 100m depth of cut. So, I'm chancing it buying the blade. :c)

Or, flip wood. I was put off that a bit on that by what was said in a previous posting.

Or, saw by hand. :c)

Variation I can handle except in your case. The correlation coefficient [r] is terrible, it should be near 1.0 and positive such that bigger blades require bigger wattage. What are wattages near to the blade sizes you named?

 

[big-all]

before i go any further
can you tell me the arrangment to

A secure the motor
B how do you plan to fix the fence
C how are you fixing the riving knife
D are you remembering if you move the motor further away from table surface[thicker material] it reduces the cutting depth
also only half the extra blade size goes into the cutting depth

 

[Porque223]

I trust the data in my paper copy of the Grainger catalog and it says for table saws a 250mm blade needs 1119w and 300 needs 2238.
By this reckoning with your wattage you can handle 265mm but I don't know the tolerance on this value. It's probably quite wide.

 

[big-all]

I trust the data in my paper copy of the Grainger catalog and it says for table saws a 250mm blade needs 1119w and 300 needs 2238.
By this reckoning with your wattage you can handle 265mm but I don't know the tolerance on this value. It's probably quite wide.

there is a mistake in you chart then a 10" saw on 1120w more like 1700w