Need help with this 5-point UPVC door lock that gets stuck

[meganfurley22]

Hi
I have a 5-point lock on my Garage UPVC door to the inside of the house which seems to be stuck.

Normally I can pull the latch up to close the door and engage the lock and then lock it. However since yesterday suddenly, it seems to be stuck.

Firstly,the problem is present even when the latch is tried with the door open .

Secondly on slightly tapping the sliding and protruding bit (marked with an arrow in the pic), I was able to get it to slide out further suddenly.I greased it and locked the door for the night.

Now, again it seems to be stuck and can only come out a bit but not fully ;that is I cannot pull the latch up to lock the door.

Since it did work once(yesterday), I thought it might be something I can do to sort it out and its not a job for the locksmith

I

mage enclosed. Can someone please help me sort it out.

Regards
Megan

 

[Gazman16]

Sounds like the gearbox is failing. I personally wouldn't even attempt to repair it. I have tried before but you open the gearbox up and springs will go flying and you will never get it back together right.
Im afraid its a new gearbox/locking system job.
You need to take the handle off and the cylinder out. Then remove all the long philips screws down the edge of the door (any that are 10mm or under put them straight back in) then slide out the whole mech. Take photos, Lots of sizes! (look at the diagram half way down this page to see the sizes you need http://www.northwesthardware.co.uk/product.php?xProd=468&xSec=53).
Keep an eye out for any makes and codes stamped on it too.

 

[meganfurley22]

Sounds like the gearbox is failing. I personally wouldn't even attempt to repair it. I have tried before but you open the gearbox up and springs will go flying and you will never get it back together right.
Im afraid its a new gearbox/locking system job.
You need to take the handle off and the cylinder out. Then remove all the long philips screws down the edge of the door (any that are 10mm or under put them straight back in) then slide out the whole mech. Take photos, Lots of sizes! (look at the diagram half way down this page to see the sizes you need http://www.northwesthardware.co.uk/product.php?xProd=468&xSec=53).
Keep an eye out for any makes and codes stamped on it too.

Thanks for that. A really stupid question! Is it just a case of removing the screws and replacing the right part? It looks a touch complicated. Do I get only a part replacement or the entire mechanism and how do I know which exact size(ERA)? Any tips? Thanks

 

[Gazman16]

ERA is just one of hundreds of makes. There is just a diagram on that page that shows the sort of measurements you need.
Whether you can just change the gearbox or have to do the whole mech depends on whats in there.

Take it out, Photos and sizes etc and put it back together while you search for the part.
Should only take about 15-20 mins. Quick tip, When you take the screw out for the cylinder you will need to turn the lock (with the key) about a quarter of a turn to be able to pull it out.

 

[Gazman16]

You can always get some quotes from some double glazing company's or lock smiths if it seems a bit too much for you. They are likely to quote £100-300 depending on your area and the make of the lock though.
Actual parts will cost £20-100.

 

[Gazman16]

Here I found a vid for you.

 

[meganfurley22]

Thanks Gazman16! I think I'll give it a shot. Why does the price range from £30 to over £100? Am I getting a poor lock by trying to save a bit?!

 

[Gazman16]

Depends on if you can just change the center mechanism and on the make and how rare the lock is.

 

[crank39]

This one is one of the easiest gearboxes to do, for sourcing use Northwest hardware and ask for a ERA/SURELOCK/SARACEN gearbox, all those 3 are the same. You'll need to remove the complete lock strip to change the gearbox but while its in situ you'll be able to see the 3 'torx' screws around the latch/deadbolt area anyway, undo the 3 and the gearbox drops off the back, take note here and look where and how the gearbox connects to the mechanism which makes the things slide, sounds daunting I know but this ones the easiest ever, offer the new gearbox up to the existing lock strip and make sure slidey things on the mechanism clip into the gearbox, each end is bent at 90° to form kind of a hook, this basically locates into a slot either end of the gearbox so when the handle is lifted one goes up and ones goes down thus operating the mechanism

 

[meganfurley22]

This one is one of the easiest gearboxes to do, for sourcing use Northwest hardware and ask for a ERA/SURELOCK/SARACEN gearbox, all those 3 are the same. You'll need to remove mechanism

Thanks very much. How do I decide if it is 35mm backset or 45 mm backset?

 

[crank39]

Forgot to say just ask for the gearbox or centre case and not the complete lock strip

I'll bet my mortgage its a 35mm, measure from the outer edge of the faceplate strip which should be flush with the PVC its sunk into backwards to the vertical centre line of the handle

 

[meganfurley22]

Just wanted to thank Gazman16 and Crank39! Followed your advice and the door is sorted! Thanks guys! Really appreciate our help!

 

[Gazman16]

No problem and well done for doing it so quick.
You may just want to check that the door dosent need any adjustment too. If the handle is stiff to lift and lock this may be what caused the gearbox to break in the 1st place.
If it all locks easily and smoothly dont worry but if there is any stiffness or rubbing let us know and we can talk you through adjustments.