New Boiler Required,

Joined
26 Jan 2010
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Kent
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,

I have a really really old g rated boiler with water tank in loft and then water tank in airing cupboard massives of pipe work and some dodge old boiler that we manually have to switch on and pump the gas through etc etc.

Want to know if replacing the whole lot and going for a combi condensing boiler is the right idea? and also which A RATED boiler is the best on the market at the moment with the fewest problems, as i have tried researching and can not decide on a front runner.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Sponsored Links
What sort of pump do you use to "pump the gas through "
 
At the bottom of the boiler where the ignition button is there is a valve that you have to open and a grey button that you push to 'pump the gas through' as per the instructions on the front of the boiler, it is probably about 25 years old
 
what boiler (make and model please) I'm intrigued, although I think it's probably the ignition button you're pumping.
 
Sponsored Links
Ideal Elan
Stelrad Group,
its brown and old

There is a silver valve that you have to turn a quater turn, then a gas control button which you have to pump and a third orange button whihc is the ignition button, to light the pilot light, once the piolt light is lit you have to hold the gas control button and slowly release until the boiler fire's up. I found some paper work for it the other day dated 1983

but what can you recommend as a replacement and is a combi bolier the way to go.
 
Vaillants are pretty good but not the cheapest, as for a combi, it depends on your water supply and useage, they are suitable for single bathroom applications but wouldn't generally recommend them for 2 or more bathrooms.
 
is a combi bolier the way to go.
Most people seem to think combi's are some sort of panacea, without really looking into it. They do have their place (mainly new builds, or very old installations, say pre 1980's when the entire system is in need of replacing) but they're not always the best solution for everyone. Traditional open vented boilers also condense and are available with the same 'A' efficiency rating as a combi, so that's not an issue. Here are 11 reasons why if you have an existing open vented installation a combi might not be for you.

1. Assuming you have modern controls with motorised valves, room & cylinder thermostats you can keep them. Have a combi and most will have to be removed. De-commissioning wiring safely is not always easy, install an open vented boiler and the existing wiring can remain unchanged.

2. Combi’s are more complicated than standard boilers so they have more components inside thus increasing the possibility of a failure. They are not suitable for DIY work. Repairs should be carried out by suitably qualified people and with parts from the manufacturer. On the other hand, open vented boilers have a lot of components externally mounted. Pump, motorised valve, programmer etc., these can be easily replaced by a competent DIYer or local plumber, and with any manufacturers parts obtainable from local plumbers merchants or DIY stores.

3. Combi’s are slower to get hot water to the taps if the boiler is starting from cold when a tap is turned on. Running cold water whilst you wait for it to get hot also wastes water. You could of course use the preheat setting that fires the boiler every so often to keep it warm just in case you need some hot water (a bit like starting up your car every half hour to keep it warm, should you want to go out)

4. To generate hot water directly from the cold mains supply, Combi boilers have a large gas burner. Because of this, you will most likely have to have a larger diameter gas pipe to the boiler to cope with the higher demand. Often in boiler upgrades, this unsightly pipe is routed around the outside of the house.

5. You won't have to get rid of your existing hot water cylinder and feed tanks, which will speed installation and be less disruptive. (This may be a disadvantage though if you're desperate for the few feet of space the cylinder occupies) and you retain a useful airing cupboard for er..airing clothes, making yoghurt or whatever.

6. Combi boilers cannot provide hot water and heating at the same time. When running hot water the heating will go off.

7. With a standard boiler, you can have an immersion heater to provide hot water when the boiler fails (and they do fail, checkout this forum) with a combi it’s the kettle & saucepans.

8. If you bleed the radiators with a combi you will have to manually re-pressurise the system, non system boilers will be automatically topped up from the header tank.

9. Hot water flow from a combi is reduced when cold water is used at the same time, because both are supplied via the same cold main supply pipe. This doesn't happen with a traditional system as the hot water cylinder is supplied from a storage tank which will contain sufficient water to cope with most periods of increased cold water demand, such as when a WC is flushed.

10. Because the incoming cold mains water temperature can fall by 10 degrees in winter the quantity of hot water produced by a combi also falls, but with a traditional system, hot water temperature is controlled by a thermostat on the cylinder, so temperature and flow will be consistent all year around.

11. Just because everyone else is having a combi doesn't mean you have to or it's the best way for everyone (think endowment mortgages in the 1980's)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top