New boiler

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Lancashire
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I have been quoted £2300 for a new glow worm 15 hxi (system to be converted to fully pumped s plan with pump. motorised valves and bypass fitted adjacent to boiler).

Does this sound about right? Also, is a 15 hxi sufficient for a 3 bed semi with 10 radiators?
 
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That all sounds quite reasonably priced. I am sure you could get it done cheaper but the quality might suffer.

Make sure it includes power flushing the existing system.

What concerns me more is that thermostatic radiator valves are expected to be fitted at least in the bedrooms and ideally on most of the larger rads.

I also wonder if your hot water cylinder is reasonable modern and has green or blue foam insulation. If its bare copper then it definately should be changed and if its yellowish foam then unless its a rapid heat model it should be replaced.

Tony Glazier
 
Quote excludes power flush (this is quoted as a significant additional cost so not sure I'll bother - see below - what do you think?).

All radiators and tanks and most pipework have been replaced in the last 2 years, cylinder doesn't have part L compliance sticker on but has blue/green foam insulation - should this be OK? Most radiators have trv. When drained down to replace radiators one by one, drained water always clear and inhibitor has been put in.

Boiler is being fitted at side of chimney breast picking up existing pipes where possible (it is to replace current back boiler)

Current boiler output 43,300 BTU (input 58,000) and is working its heart out when the weather is cold. New boiler rated at 55,300 output - will I notice a significant difference?
 
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Quote excludes power flush (this is quoted as a significant additional cost so not sure I'll bother - see below - what do you think?).

All radiators and tanks and most pipework have been replaced in the last 2 years, cylinder doesn't have part L compliance sticker on but has blue/green foam insulation - should this be OK? Most radiators have trv. When drained down to replace radiators one by one, drained water always clear and inhibitor has been put in.

Boiler is being fitted at side of chimney breast picking up existing pipes where possible (it is to replace current back boiler)

Current boiler output 43,300 BTU (input 58,000) and is working its heart out when the weather is cold. New boiler rated at 55,300 output - will I notice a significant difference?
 
Make a list of your rads, find a sheet of outputs (shouldn't be hard to get the right one as they're so new), use the highest Delta T (ie hot rads, dissipating most heat), and add them up. Then add an allowance for pipe losses (under the floor) of say 10%. (I've measured some systems at 20%!)

If you work backwards from the recovery times of current (ordinary, not fast) cylinders, you'll find that they must be able to pass energy into the water at a much higher rate than the 3kW (10,200 Btu/hr) which used to be used as a rule of thumb. More like 12kW, or higher.

(Call it cynicism or experience, but I expect you'll find that your rads only add up to 40,000, and if you did the sums properly for house heat losses, with outside temperatures down to minus 2º , the rads are too small. You might need to increase the size of one or two.)

Chew it over - think how constant the demand for HW could be in the morning and the effect this would have on the heating. My guess would be that you'll be more or less warm enough but the boiler will be flat out in the mornings when the weather's really cold. You can help it a bit by putting the HW on before the CH, or using a programmable thermostat to stop the house getting too cold at night.

So that's a definite maybe, then.

Regarding the cylinder, nobody's checking. Some bright spark might complain at house sale if you've lost the document saying it complies with part L, but I doubt it.
 
Thanks for that, when the radiators were fitted I purposely oversized them 10% for their locations, all underfloor pipes have 10mm or more insulation. They are, however, all 15mm so I am aware there is a lot of water in the system.

Considering the systems general cleanliness do you think it is worth paying £300 for a power flush?
 
Although I am an advocate of power flushing, it does sound to me as if your system will be OK if this is not done as long as X100 or similar inhibitor is added.

I am a little sceptical of your "blue /green" cylinder! I have only seen compliant blue ones and nearly compliant green ones!

The green ones are nearly compliant in respect of insulation but dont have a fast reheat.

The blue ones should be compliant and have a rapid reheat which in itself is worth the extra cost in my view.

Tony Glazier
 
£2300 seems a bit on the high side. I normally charge £350 for powerflush and £25 per rad for TRV,s I don't install glowworm so not sure of the price. Get other quote's if your not sure
 
compheat said:
£25 per rad for TRV,s

Which make are you fitting at that price?

We used to charge £29 for Drayton TRV4 but since they put the price up yet again ( after another change of ownership ) we now charge £30 plus £15 for the lockshield.

Tony
 
Normally I use Myson But i prefer Danfoss if the price is right.
Ive used cheap one's at about £5 but i'm not impressed. Drayton are ok but a bit pricey and dont work any better than Danfoss (they look better)
£75 for the first then £25 for everyone after, Unless I'm quoting for a complete install.
Cheers Ron
 
I,m afraid so :LOL: It used to be Greater Manchester then i moved 30miles and now i'm back in sunny lancashire.
I always thought M/C was in Lancs :confused:
 
BLACKPOOL is to far to go just to quote for a job i might not get :( I live near Rawtenstall so your about 45 to 60 min away. I couldn't do anything for 2 or 3 weeks anyway. Email me your tel number and we can discuss the job
 

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