New Brick Shed - Cost involved?

[eastender3]

Hi All,

We moved into our present house few years ago and there is old brick shed in the garden in poor condition. Wife is very keen to replace it a new brick rectangle shape one. 20ft xs 8ft roughly.

I like to know the following.

1. Is it better to use concrete blocks or normal bricks to build the walls.
2. Flat roof or tiled roof, which is better and more expensive.
3. Rough costs involved.

Thanks.

 

[stuart45]

Concrete blocks are cheaper, bricks look better.
Flat roof is cheaper, pitched is better.
Costs depend whether it's DIY or not.
A squarer building is a more efficient use of materials per sq ft.

 

[eastender3]

Concrete blocks are cheaper, bricks look better.
Flat roof is cheaper, pitched is better.
Costs depend whether it's DIY or not.
A squarer building is a more efficient use of materials per sq ft.

Many thanks for your reply.

It won't be a DIY job, as I'm not that good in that department but hire a workmen to do it, any idea how much it would cost roughly.

 

[Himaginn]

Bear in mind the Building Regulations. Under 30m² doesn't need Building Regs conformity.
Proximity to boundary, building materials and roof height may also affect Building Regulations requirement.

I would guess, a very rough lower-end estimate £12,000, based on 30m²

Floor Slab and Ground works £4,000
Walls £3,000
Roof £2,000
Windows, Doors £2,000
Facia, Soffit, Guttering, etc £1,000

 

[eastender3]

Bear in mind the Building Regulations. Under 30m² doesn't need Building Regs conformity.
Proximity to boundary, building materials and roof height may also affect Building Regulations requirement.

I would guess, a very rough lower-end estimate £12,000, based on 30m²

Floor Slab and Ground works £4,000
Walls £3,000
Roof £2,000
Windows, Doors £2,000
Facia, Soffit, Guttering, etc £1,000

Hello and thanks for the reply.

Is this based on cheaper options, i.e. concrete blocks and flat roof. The area 30m2, what is it please, as I'm not familiar with this. Is this 20 ft x 8 ft area.

 

[Himaginn]

You asked for rough costs. A brickie might correct me but I think blocks are cheaper to buy but quicker to lay. You might decide to paint them or want a rendered finish.
Flat roof is cheaper and quicker than a cut roof, but not much quicker than trusses, which are more expensive. In the long run, pitched roof require less maintenance.
You pays your money and takes your choice.

Sorry, I saw it as about 30m². My mistake. 30m² is 6m X 5m
Your proposal is less than half that.
20' is about 6.1m approx. 8' is about 2.4 m
6.1 X 2.4 =14.6 m² approx.
So costs will be considerably less than £12,000. Maybe about £8,000

 

[stuart45]

You asked for rough costs. A brickie might correct me but I think blocks are cheaper to buy but quicker to lay.

No, you are correct.

 

[eastender3]

Hello,
Just had a quote to do this.

He told me he won't use cheap thermal blocks but use solid concrete blocks. We didn't go for insulated shed as the quote was £10k but a non insulated for £6k with rendering outside with elec socket and flat roof. Is this a good price?. He told us no use rendering the inside walls as it will show cracks but can apply masonry paint, as walls r not insulated?

 

[Himaginn]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'rendering the inside walls'. Is this a stand alone shed?
In which case there are no internal walls.
Do you mean rendering or plastering the internal face of the walls?
Why would you do that? Just paint them, if desired, in white for added visibility within the shed, but that would be the only reason, if it's just a shed.

The decision to use stronger blocks that thermal blocks is the correct decision. I wouldn't use thermal blocks as a stand-alone wall, only as an inner leaf to a double-leaf wall. There is no need to use solid blocks, hollow blocks would be sufficient, but it makes little difference. I don't suppose there's much insulation or water-proofing difference between the two types. I don't know about cost difference.

There's no reason not to render the outside face of the walls, insulation or not. It makes no difference.
The average normal rendered wall is not insulated because it's usually the external leaf of a two-leafed wall. Only the internal leaf would have insulation. Anyway, all render is subject to weather. It's usually painted to give it some extra protection.

 

[eastender3]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'rendering the inside walls'. Is this a stand alone shed?
In which case there are no internal walls.
Do you mean rendering or plastering the internal face of the walls?
Why would you do that? Just paint them, if desired, in white for added visibility within the shed, but that would be the only reason, if it's just a shed.

The decision to use stronger blocks that thermal blocks is the correct decision. I wouldn't use thermal blocks as a stand-alone wall, only as an inner leaf to a double-leaf wall. There is no need to use solid blocks, hollow blocks would be sufficient, but it makes little difference. I don't suppose there's much insulation or water-proofing difference between the two types. I don't know about cost difference.

There's no reason not to render the outside face of the walls, insulation or not. It makes no difference.
The average normal rendered wall is not insulated because it's usually the external leaf of a two-leafed wall. Only the internal leaf would have insulation. Anyway, all render is subject to weather. It's usually painted to give it some extra protection.

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, it's a stand alone shed and I meant internal facing walls. The builder will plaster outside of the wall. I'm worried about dampness that could damage the walls. Here is the brief work he laid out.


1. Existing old shed taken off.

2. 500 X 400 Foundation

3. 3 lines of engineer bricks with dpc fitted

4. built with medium density blocks 4" single wall

5. Front and back wall to be rendered painted white

6. Inner stud walls to built with 3x2 timber and plaster board skimmed on top

7. Basic internal door to be supplied fitted door

8. 2 upvc single door

9. 1 upvc window to be supplied fitted

10. 1 upvc window supplied fitted by client

11. ceiling constructed with 6X2 timber no board fitted inner side

12. 18mm ply and felt on top

13. Supply ley screed on floor

14. Facer board and guttering supplied fitted

15. Inner walls will not be painted

16. Floor to be tiled client to supply material

17. basic electric fitting supplied fitted all surface mount with white trunk (2 light 2switch and

4socket )

 

[Himaginn]

Yes, it's a stand alone shed and I meant internal facing walls. The builder will plaster render (Render outside, plaster inside.) outside of the wall. I'm worried about dampness that could damage the walls. Here is the brief work he laid out.

4. built with medium density blocks 4" single wall.

These will be hollow blocks, not solid.

5. Front and back wall to be rendered painted white

This is the external face. He is going to render! The render and paint will waterproof the wall. What about the other two walls?

6. Inner stud walls to built with 3x2 timber and plaster board skimmed on top

An unnecessary expense for a shed? He is going to plaster the internal face! That's the skim. You might as well have insulation between the wall and boards, if you're intending to board and skim. Don't forget a dpm, but the boards might provide this. The additional cost is minimal, especially at this stage. To add it later will mean removing all that plaster board, etc. BUT why for a shed? (If it's a workshop/home-office, what ever, it makes sense and doesn't affect any regulations, etc.) Especially without insulation in the ceiling. And if you're going that far, don't forget the floor.
You can (add DPM) insulate, screed the floor, then add the tiles. (assuming concrete floor exists.) Walls and floor can be insulated now, ceiling added later. (You might recoup part of the cost by being able to reduce the quality of the floor tiles)
Plaster board and skim available for your finish, eg paint, wallpaper, whatever.

7. Basic internal door to be supplied fitted door

8. 2 upvc single door

Why two (or three) doors? An internal door is useless for a shed. It won't last long, and it won't have any weather resistance or thermal quality.

15. Inner walls will not be painted

Normal practice, left for you to decorate, or employ a decorator, but for a shed?

16. Floor to be tiled client to supply material

A bit OTT for a shed. You need to ensure the tiles are an exterior quality, to withstand freezing. Seek advice on tiles, adhesive and grout. DPM (or more likely lack of it) may have serious affect.

BTW, adding dpm, insulation and screed to floor could be £1000 extra cost. Perhaps a little more.

 

[eastender3]

Hello Himaginn and thanks for your reply.

We chose not to have insulation as the cost goes up to £10k where is the above work is for £6k.

The external face will be rendered and then painted. The internal face won't have any plastering but told we could just apply masonry paint, he told us if he plasters the internal face, cracks will show later?

Thanks for your advice about tiles, probably it might not be a good idea to have, just have carpet or liner.

 

[Himaginn]

So if number 6 on your list "Inner stud walls to built with 3x2 timber and plaster board skimmed on top" does not apply, and you were going to consider it as a home/office or workshop in the future, you could add insulation to the walls, when/if you stud and board the walls. (plenty of threads on this already)

If you were wanting insulation in the future, now would be the time to consider doing the floor. It would be difficult (but not impossible) to add insulation, screed and finished floor later.

Wall and ceiling insulation can be added some time in the future.

 

[eastender3]

Sorry to bother again Himaginn.

Regarding the floor, my wife is keen to add tiles but if the builder does not put DPM, will that be bad for the new tiles, I know you said we have to get exterior tiles?

 

[Himaginn]

Exterior grade tiles should withstand damp and freezing, but use the proper adhesive and grout.
Take advice also on whether an expansion joint will be needed along the 20 foot length. (Perhaps ask in Floors Forum) Your builder might need to cut a slot in the existing concrete pad.