New Consumer Unit Quote

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Our House is currently 30 years old.
We are looking at having a new consumer unit installed as the current one only has MCB's with no RCD or RCBO protection.

The first electrician to provide a quote has simply give a single figure for the entire job with no breakdown of what consumer unit or breakers will be used or individual item costs.

Is this normal practice?
 
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as for a breakdown
i did for my son , asked what they were doing, number of slots , type of RCB/RCBO , surge protection etc etc - got a full breakdown
if you dont ask , i guess you could just get a number ... simplier for the quote , and as you say no idea what that does or does not include

not a cost breakdown as such, just what was included and any possible issues what they would do, and an idea of costs etc
 
Last edited:
I'm in the North of England. Quote was for £800.
We have 8 Circuits in the current CU.
 
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ok, but to fit what exactly ????
when i speced out for son, i wanted a few spare slots
RCBO 's
also a surge protection
they also split out the kitchen and rest of house (as they were rewiring the kitchen anyway )
and various other works and testing
£1600

my consumer unit in 2017 was £500
 
The quote is for a new consumer unit replacement, main earthing CPC, upgrade incoming tails and certificate on completion.
 
Isn't that what they would mean by certificate on completion?
I would imagine that they are probably talking about 'notification' (as well as providing an Electrical Installation Certificate) - but you probably should confirm with them.

There is no such thing as a "Part P Completion Certificate".
 
The cost of parts compared with cost of labour is not that much, but an MCB is probably £2.30, and a RCBO around £16, and an RCD around £21 so 2 x RCD plus 8 MCB = £60.40 and all RCBO around £128 so maybe £70 extra to have all RCBO, so that is a small part of the £800 total, it will need a surge protection device (SPD) and the tin box that they all fit in, glands and wires, so those figures are not whole cost of parts, but the difference between a good job and a get it to comply job.

There are also different makes, I looked at Fusebox, not at one of the traditional manufacturers which tend to charge more, the cost of the SPD can vary a lot. But the work involved is around the same, and the only reason for selecting a high-priced manufacturer is when something you need is not available from the cheaper manufacturers.

A consumer unit is a type tested distribution board, and that type testing means you can't mix and match, if you want a 24 volt bell transformer to fit in the CU, and Fusebox does not make one, then the whole cost can spiral just to get the one part.

I would hope today no one would fit a duel RCD board any more, but to compare prices it has to be like for like.

The electrician often goes in blind, he has no idea what he will find, it may be straight forward, but he could also have a load of corrections to do, in my house we had neutrals mixed up on one light switch. To test earth leakage is easy,
Diffrence line neutral 8 Feb 24 reduced.jpg
a quick check with my own house shows 8 mA leakage over 14 circuits, but this does not show borrowed neutral and the like.

Also, the faults which are not down to the installation, my freezer goed into defrost cycle around once every 30 hours, if there is a fault, it could take 30 hours to show, which clearly no electrician can sit there and wait, so it is taking rough with smooth, some jobs and done and dusted and he never returns, others he will have to return many times, for faults which are not really his fault, but still had to charge for. So he can do some testing, this meter VC60B.jpgcan help, but it would take a huge amount of time to do a full EICR (electrical installation condition report) and PAT test everything so the electrician has to take a chance, win some loose some.
 
Thank you for the detailed reply.
We've had an EICR done, it took the electrician around 2 hours.

I believe the biggest culprits for earth leakage are freezers, washers, dishwashers, and kettles.
 
anything outside that lets water in - lights , Jboxes, Sockets.
Hairdryers , I have also known just laptop power leads on their own to trip , as well as various charging devices left plugged in, and even an LED bulb causing issues
 
Your spark will need to provide you with an EIC (electrical installation certificate) and a part P compliance document.
The second document is a certificate that confirms that the work complies with Parts 4 and 7 of the BUILDING REGULATIONS. (Not "Part P).
You will only get this iof your electrician is a bona fide member of a Competent Person Scheme (NAPIT, NICEIC, etc) and they they have properly notified completion to their CPS. You will get a document that looks like this.

Make sure therefore that certification and notification are included in the quote.
 

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