New immersion element not working

[john13]

Hello

The other the hotwater went cold (Harcopack) I checked the Thermostat, It was a bit scortched, so I replaced it with a new one, I also rewired the fuse. Still no hot water.

So I have changed the element in my but still not heat. On checking the element I took out THere was no sign of it having blown but it was covered in limescale. The thermostat has been changed, swapped and it has not popped its reset.

There is power to the element but I am running out of reasons for it not to be working.

Any ideas? Thanks for your advice

John

 

[Goldberg]

There is power to the element

How did you prove that there was power to the element?

 

[londonboy]

Did you check L to N aswel as L to E?
Where in london are you?

 

[john13]

Hi
I used a tester screwdriver. I think thats what is called. Place on live connection and touch end & it lights up (Same on neutral).
J.

 

[Agile]

It sounds as if you are just blindly changing parts without having done the very simple tests to determine exactly whats wrong.

You need to make the voltage and resistance measurements which will enable the fault to be assertained.

Tony

 

[londonboy]

Bin it.
Buy a decent approved voltage indicator.
Those neon screwdrivers are inaccurate and dangerous.

 

[john13]

That would be sensible. Now how does a novice like me do that?

 

[londonboy]

http://www.sercal-testequipmentsales.co.uk/fluke-t50-voltage--continuity-tester-gs38-7-p.asp

If you use this between L and N this also proves the neutral.

 

[Goldberg]

Firstly, with the power isolated at the consumer unit, remove the switch that operates the immersion heater, and check that the wiring is in good condition with all connections tight.

If you don't find anything wrong in there, then buy a cheap but good quality multimeter, and come back here for instructions on what to test.

Here's an example of something you might even get this afternoon:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4402

 

[sparkyspike]

Place on live connection and touch end & it lights up (Same on neutral).

Same on neutral? You mean your neon lights up on the neutral terminal?

This suggests you have an 'open neutral' somewhere. This could be a loose or broken connection at a terminal, somewhere between the immersion heater and the consumer unit. Check the neutral connection to the immersion, to the switch and at the consumer unit. Don't do this with the power on as open neutrals (neutrals which have become live due to them having been disconnected from 0v) can bite!

 

[john13]

Sparkyspike

Yep It does light up on the neutral.

I have changed the flex from the switch plate but I still get a light up on neutral.

Mmmm puzzled.

 

[Lectrician]

Sounds like the switch is faulty to me.

The neon is not the tool to be using, but, you could place it on the neutral FEEDING the switch and the neutral leaving switch with the switch turned on. It should not light up on either of the neutrals if everything is healthy. If it lights up on just the load(out) side of the switch, the switch is faulty. Is it lights up on both, the neutral in the supply to the switch is open circuit somewhere.

 

[Goldberg]

I have changed the flex from the switch plate but I still get a light up on neutral.

Mmmm puzzled.

You're puzzled because you're not diagnosing the problem. If you keep changing things without understanding then it's quite likely that you'll introduce a new problem without solving the first one, which will make you even more confused.

 

[john13]

Lectrician

I just tested the Neon lights up on the neutral going into the switch.

Does that mean the issue is somewhere between the switch and the fusebox.

I appreciate all your help.

Electricals is not my specialist subject. In fact I don't have a specialist subject!

 

[Goldberg]

I just tested the Neon lights up on the neutral going into the switch.

So you did that, but did you do this?

you could place it on the neutral FEEDING the switch and the neutral leaving switch with the switch turned on....

If it lights up on both, the neutral in the supply to the switch is open circuit somewhere.