New Kitchen

[andsally]

Hello everyone.

I am in the process of gutting my outdated kitchen (8ft x 7ft). I will be doing all the work myself except the wiring and gas, although I intend to do all chasing out. Have decided upon final layout.

I would be most grateful for advice with the following:

1. Should I purchase the cooker hood, and separate, integrated fridge and freezer before chasing out and fitting metal boxes?
Reason I ask is to ensure that wall connections are in correct places.

2. I understand regs re height of wall sockets. Regarding sockets for under-counter appliances. Is there a standard height for these?
I am thinking of clearances so that appliances can be pushed in to full depth. Would rather have sockets behind appliances that to drill access holes in adjacent units.

3. Given the small size of the kitchen and the number of appliances (hob, single oven, hood, boiler, fridge, freezer, washing machine, plinth heater) I am considering having grid switches installed to do away with the alternative of having many FCUs above worktops. Any comments on this?

Many thanks in advance

 

[martinxxxxxx]

1. Should I purchase the cooker hood, and separate, integrated fridge and freezer before chasing out and fitting metal boxes?
Reason I ask is to ensure that wall connections are in correct places.

Yes, I think that would be a good idea.

2. I understand regs re height of wall sockets. Regarding sockets for under-counter appliances. Is there a standard height for these?
I am thinking of clearances so that appliances can be pushed in to full depth. Would rather have sockets behind appliances that to drill access holes in adjacent units.

I personally would want them accessible in adjacent units as my first choice, if not then fit above unit control switches to be able isolate them if required; in which case 7" from the floor should be ok, but would need chacking with appliances (see answer above)


3. Given the small size of the kitchen and the number of appliances (hob, single oven, hood, boiler, fridge, freezer, washing machine, plinth heater) I am considering having grid switches installed to do away with the alternative of having many FCUs above worktops. Any comments on this?


Good idea


Hope this helps

 

[sparkticus]

1. Should I purchase the cooker hood, and separate, integrated fridge and freezer before chasing out and fitting metal boxes?
Reason I ask is to ensure that wall connections are in correct places.

I would purchase the cooker hood or at least get an accurate fixing template. They do come with a flexible lead for wiring into an FCU but cooker hood positioning needs careful planning. The integrated fridge & freezer will have a flexible lead & not so critical but you do need to be careful about socket positions behind them if space is limited (space is usually limited)

2. I understand regs re height of wall sockets. Regarding sockets for under-counter appliances. Is there a standard height for these?
I am thinking of clearances so that appliances can be pushed in to full depth. Would rather have sockets behind appliances that to drill access holes in adjacent units.

There is no standard height for what you propose. I would keep them high rather than low (often gets damp behind such appliances) You can have the sockets directly behind the appliances if you wish provided they do not obstruct. Some people prefer to have the under counter sockets switched from above which is only an option - not mandatory.

3. Given the small size of the kitchen and the number of appliances (hob, single oven, hood, boiler, fridge, freezer, washing machine, plinth heater) I am considering having grid switches installed to do away with the alternative of having many FCUs above worktops. Any comments on this?

Not too sure what you mean here. I understand what grid switches are but can you send more details regarding how they will do away with the FCU etc?

 

[andsally]

Thank you so much for swift replies! I will start looking for appliances and make room in the shed.

Re the grid switches. I was thinking that 3A fuse modules could be included to satisfy the wiring requirements for the plinth heater and boiler etc...

That said, it has just occured to me that isolation, accessibility and fuse requirements could be fulfilled by using a fused flex outlet plate out of sight inside cupboard and above wall units respectively, and isolated by DP grid modules...

 

[holmslaw]

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[andsally]

Have you considered fitting isolators for the circuits rather than appliances. You would need two and it would be lot cheaper and neater than grid switches.

If I am correct in my understanding, that sounds a great idea. Why two? All appliances except oven, and one for the oven?

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[Paul_C]

1. Should I purchase the cooker hood, and separate, integrated fridge and freezer before chasing out and fitting metal boxes?

As noted already, the exhaust hood is probably the most likely candidate, since the other appliances are more adaptable by way of the flexible cord which will be behind them and out of sight. If you really want sockets for other appliances to be directly behind them, and space is very tight, then you might well need to locate the socket carefully to match up with where the greatest depth will be with the appliance in place. You might also want to consider future replacement of those appliances, even if it's many years hence, since if space is really that critical a replacement of a different model might not fit so well.

2. I understand regs re height of wall sockets.

If you're referring to the often-quoted Building Regs. heights, remember that as this is a refurbishment of an existing dwelling there are actually no requirements whatsoever, and you can use whatever heights you like.

3. Given the small size of the kitchen and the number of appliances (hob, single oven, hood, boiler, fridge, freezer, washing machine, plinth heater) I am considering having grid switches installed to do away with the alternative of having many FCUs above worktops. Any comments on this?

Opinions vary somewhat. One school of thought says that it can be inconvenient to have a fused plug hidden behind the appliance, so that in the event of the fuse failing you need the pull the appliance right out to get to it. Against that, the argument is that if the fuse has blown, the chances are that the appliance will need to come out for repairs anyway. As has been mentioned here recently, if you adopt FCU's or a grid system which places fuses above the counter, you can always use BS546 15-amp sockets (with matching non-fused plugs) to connect the appliances if you wish.

Personally, I wouldn't hard wire fridges, freezers, etc. to a flex outlet plate. It will just make it that much more awkward to disconnect and remove the appliance if necessary.

 

[martinxxxxxx]

you can always use BS546 15-amp sockets (with matching non-fused plugs) to connect the appliances if you wish.

Be careful doing this as removing the factory plug can invalidate warrantees in some cases

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Have you considered fitting isolators for the circuits rather than appliances.

Alternatively, as he will be wanting an electrician to sign a document to say that he did the design, has he considered having all these discussions with the electrician, not with us?

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[andsally]

Have you considered fitting isolators for the circuits rather than appliances.

Alternatively, as he will be wanting an electrician to sign a document to say that he did the design, has he considered having all these discussions with the electrician, not with us?

I appreciate your concern, ban-all-sheds!
As you will appreciate, there are electricians and there are electricians! Given the appalling botch we have had, I would like to have the visible required means of isolation kept to an aesthetic minimum.

I do have an NICEIC electrician in mind. I don't want to say to him "make electricity come into the kitchen". Rather, my intention in posting is gather ideas and to say to him,"this is what I have in mind, what do you think, how much and when can you start?".

 

[riveralt]

Why two? All appliances except oven, and one for the oven?

...... I would put the fridge/freezer on its own non rcd circuit.

If so the socket must be specifically labelled to that appliance only....

But you will still need an RCD to be fitted for that circuit unless you provide the cable with earthed metallic protection or bury it below 50mm of the surface.

 

[Paul_C]

Or unless you decide that there's no need to comply with every detail of BS7671:2008 (17th edition).

 

[holmslaw]

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