New Kitchen

[andsally]

Thank you for replies, which have helped much. I won't be able to have just one grid switch / appliance isolator as I won't be able to comply with the 2 metre distance regulation. It certainly makes sense to have more than one circuit in the kitchen. Will need a new consumer unit, so will get this done at the same time.

One final question please...

Say the double sockets above worktop were knocked out with a horizonal chase between them. The isolator switches for the fridge and freezer would be at the same height, but on a different circuit. Is it acceptable for the socket circuit cables to pass through the metal box of the isolator switches?

 

[sparkticus]

Thank you for replies, which have helped much. I won't be able to have just one grid switch / appliance isolator as I won't be able to comply with the 2 metre distance regulation. It certainly makes sense to have more than one circuit in the kitchen. Will need a new consumer unit, so will get this done at the same time.

One final question please...

Say the double sockets above worktop were knocked out with a horizonal chase between them. The isolator switches for the fridge and freezer would be at the same height, but on a different circuit. Is it acceptable for the socket circuit cables to pass through the metal box of the isolator switches?

Well, it is not unacceptable but not sure there would be enough room.
In this case the usual practice is to have a wide enough chase to accommodate all cable runs.

 

[andsally]

Sorry, I should have clarified: the cables to and from the fridge isolator switch would drop vertically to socket under worktop

 

[Chri5]

Isolation of under counter applances is required, but............

Do you really think a on / off 20a switch is sensible for a fridge or freezer ?

Think about what happens when someone turns them off- you go to make tea the following morning and are greeted by a pool of water and rotten food.

A key switch would allow isolation for maintenance, and couldn't be accidently switched. A non switched fuse spur could be used, the isolation being to pull the fuse.

Running other circuit cables through back boxes is not good practice, if you must do it use 35mm deep boxes with will prevent congestion. I'd suggest it's better to have a suitable chase for all cables between the boxes, and a small one behind the box with positioning of the cable mindfull of the screw fixing locations that will be used to fix the back box.

 

[andsally]

Thank you again, Chri5.

Interesting point about key switches - especially as teenagers have now learned how to turn off electrics when not in use. To get them to leave something switched on will only confuse them!

Point taken about chasing: will do bulk of work and leave rest until electrician arrives.

 

[sparkticus]

If you use the right tools/equipment and assuming decent walls you can "engineer" the chases to accommodate complex wiring routes.

 

[ColJack]

A non switched fuse spur could be used, the isolation being to pull the fuse.

Not Isolation in that case since you are not disconnecting all of the live conductors, the neutral remains connected..

I'd suggest it's better to have a suitable chase for all cables between the boxes, and a small one behind the box with positioning of the cable mindfull of the screw fixing locations that will be used to fix the back box.

dear god I hope you were joking..?
you have no idea that the cable is there with the front of the socket or accessory removed..
the box gets a little lose and a future owner decides to put an extra screw in and hey presto one live screw and possibly back box too..

 

[Chri5]

CJ- I wasn't joking. Please explain how a back box set in the wall, plastered, screw fixed and then tiled around would "become loose".

Running a cable around the back box is outside zone so not allowed, and running another circuit cable through a back box, with another circuit on it means a live cable is inside a box that would have have been isolated.

Since you choose to use "dear God", please ask him for devine intervention and offer up your alternative method for doing as the OP wishes.

Contradiction only offends when the post offers no helpful content

 

[sparkticus]

CJ- I wasn't joking. Please explain how a back box set in the wall, plastered, screw fixed and then tiled around would "become loose".

Running a cable around the back box is outside zone so not allowed, and running another circuit cable through a back box, with another circuit on it means a live cable is inside a box that would have have been isolated.

Since you choose to use "dear God", please ask him for devine intervention and offer up your alternative method for doing as the OP wishes.

Contradiction only offends when the post offers no helpful content

The backing box will not come loose and running cables behind it is no different than running cables under metal capping. Most likely (assuming best practice) the backing box will be connected to the socket earth anyway.

 

[ColJack]

safe zones extend vertically above and below the boxes as well as horizontally so detouring the cables around the boxes is the safest option ..

shall I wait for the "but then the cable is out of the zone where it goes round the corner of the box" reply?..
no..
put quite simply, if a homeowner is stupid enough to try and screw something within 10-20mm of the corner of a socket then they quite frankly deserve to be electrocuted..

I would personally drop to the first socket then to below counter height then surface mount to the wall under the counter and back up to each socket etc where needed..