New lights and switch for garage

[mdemetri2]

Hello Everyone, hope someone can provide a bit guidance.

I currently have a double fluorescent light unit in the garage operated by standard single switch. What I want to do is add some halogen spotlights over some worktop.

To do this am I correct in thinking I can break into the feed to the existing light switch, with a junction box, and take it to a new switch then to the new lights?

Thank you very much!

 

[Taylortwocities]

It depends on how the light switch is wired. If there are only two wires into the switch then you can't do what you want to do like that. This is because there will not be a neutral conductor at the switch.

You'll need to find the lighting circuit feed and put your junction box there.

See the WIKI //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:single_way_lighting
for how its done.

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Hello.
Without more information about the existing circuit, including how it is cabled we cannot really advise you. (eg you may not have a 'Neutral' at the switch).
How is this circuit 'fed', protected etc ?
Have you had a look at the Wiki lighting diagrams ?

The more we know the better.
I hope this helps.

Ed

too slow again !

 

[mdemetri2]

Ok, I will take a look at the existing wiring and post how its all wired up currently.....

 

[Steve]

I currently have a double fluorescent light unit in the garage operated by standard single switch. What I want to do is add some halogen spotlights over some worktop.

Why?

Fluorescent is the perfect work light. Halogen is the least perfect work light!

Get a decent High frequency instant start twin fitting, you wont regret it.

 

[mdemetri2]

ok, had a look at the existing switch, its has live. neutral and earth in it.....Wylex 2-Way Metal RCD Garage Consumer Unit is what is in the garage, one fuse used for the power sockets and the other for the lighting....does this help identify where I can wire up from?

Thanks in advance again......sorry its taken ages for me to get back with any further (hopefully helpful) information.....

 

[ban-all-sheds]

ok, had a look at the existing switch, its has live. neutral and earth in it.

How many cables?

If just one it will not have L/N/E.


//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting

 

[Taylortwocities]

Sometimes I wonder why we bother telling people stuff...

It depends on how the light switch is wired. If there are only two wires into the switch then you can't do what you want to do like that. This is because there will not be a neutral conductor at the switch.

You'll need to find the lighting circuit feed and put your junction box there.

See the WIKI //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:single_way_lighting
for how its done.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Hold judgement - it might have L/N/E going in, and coming out. If you were installing a single fluorescent fitting in a garage, would you bother looping at the light, or would you just run from the CU to the switch to the light?

 

[1john]

that would all depend on the location of the CU, light and switch.

 

[mdemetri2]

there is only one cable at the switch and one at the light, so I guess there is no loop. Consumer unit, switch and light are all within a couple of meters of one an other...........

 

[Taylortwocities]

there is only one cable at the switch and one at the light, so I guess there is no loop. Consumer unit, switch and light are all within a couple of meters of one an other...........

Then there must be a junction box somewhere. If there is a consumer unit for the garage the connections may be in there.

Sounds like you may have to follow one of the wires to see where they go.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

there is only one cable at the switch and one at the light, so I guess there is no loop.

So extend the light circuit cable (the loop) from the fluorescent to the place where you want additional lights, and add a new switch where you want it.

Simples.

 

[Taylortwocities]

So extend the light circuit cable (the loop) from the fluorescent to the place where you want additional lights, and add a new switch where you want it.

Simples.

But won't the connections at the existing light be neutral and switched live?
That doesn't help as the new switch would then only operate when the existing light is switched on.

Or do you mean he could extend just the neutral from the existing light and add a second switch to provide the switched live?

Or is there something I've missed that you have seen (it has happened )

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm thinking what you've missed is:

there is only one cable at the switch and one at the light, so I guess there is no loop.

if there's only one cable at the switch it must be L/SL, so I'm assuming that there's a cable from the CU to the light and then a drop cable to the switch. i.e. permanent live at the light.

Gotta say though it's not very encouraging that the OP can't look at one light, one switch and 2 surface mounted cables and know what to do...