NEW LIGHTSWITCH
- Thread starter LEEMARK
- Start date
Calm down and stop shouting ( use lower case and not all caps )
Most likely reason is one of the wires in the switch was not tightened properly or has snapped.
Or something more complicated in which case more information is needed.
What does the switch control, how many lamps, wattage and type of lamp(s)
Is it a dimmer switch ? Why changed, had the previous one failed ?
Most likely reason is one of the wires in the switch was not tightened properly or has snapped.
Or something more complicated in which case more information is needed.
What does the switch control, how many lamps, wattage and type of lamp(s)
Is it a dimmer switch ? Why changed, had the previous one failed ?
Metal fronted plate switch MUST be earthed. You didn't mention an earth wire. if there is not earth wire that is connected to the earth system at the consumer unit the metal fronted switch is a safety hazard, espeically in a kitchen where condensation can easily occur..
Check the wires are properly fitted into the terminals
[1] Loose screws
[2] Insulation under the screw,
[3] Copper snapped due to being cut when the insulation was removed.
[4] Copper snapped inside insulation due to to much flexing of wire
Switch has failed Halogens have very high inrush currents and some low cost or poor quality switches although rated at 5 amps ( 1150 watts ) do not suvive the short duration high current as the halogens come up to temperature. Try putting the old switch back.
Have you done anything at the lamp that could have left a loose connection there ?
Check the wires are properly fitted into the terminals
[1] Loose screws
[2] Insulation under the screw,
[3] Copper snapped due to being cut when the insulation was removed.
[4] Copper snapped inside insulation due to to much flexing of wire
Switch has failed Halogens have very high inrush currents and some low cost or poor quality switches although rated at 5 amps ( 1150 watts ) do not suvive the short duration high current as the halogens come up to temperature. Try putting the old switch back.
Have you done anything at the lamp that could have left a loose connection there ?
is it a new light fitting?
haveyou changed the lamps recently?
sounds like the fitting is duff..
get yourself a multimeter and read the instruction booklet for how to set it for 500VAC.
haveyou changed the lamps recently?
sounds like the fitting is duff..
get yourself a multimeter and read the instruction booklet for how to set it for 500VAC.
With a multimeter he wont tell much at a lightswitch with no earth wire....
If you get a test meter you'll probably have to take down the light fitting and do some tests there. To save some time, try putting in a working light fitting in place of the ceiling light. At least then you'll know if its the fitting or something else.
Going back to no earth. Make sure the earth wire just hasnt been cut back. You should not use a metal fitting if its not earthed.
If you get a test meter you'll probably have to take down the light fitting and do some tests there. To save some time, try putting in a working light fitting in place of the ceiling light. At least then you'll know if its the fitting or something else.
Going back to no earth. Make sure the earth wire just hasnt been cut back. You should not use a metal fitting if its not earthed.
who said anything about the switch.. 
you check at the light to see if you have switched live coming back..
no reason to think he has a spare light fitting about anymore than he does a multimeter or volt stick.. ( do not use a neon screwdriver.. )
you check at the light to see if you have switched live coming back..
no reason to think he has a spare light fitting about anymore than he does a multimeter or volt stick.. ( do not use a neon screwdriver.. )
If your lighting circuit does not have an earth then you should not have any Class 1 (Metal) fittings - that includes light switches and the light fittings themselves (don't forget exterior ones).
So, you have 3 options as I see it:-
1. Following the route of your lighting circuit install an earth wire of an appropriate size (1.0mm singles should do it)
2. Rewire your lighting circuit
3. Replace all you Class 1 fittings with Class 2 (double insulated), supply your lighting circuits via a RCD and attach a warning label to your consumer unit which states that only class 2 fittings are to be used (when changing the switches I would either use nylon screws or switches that have screw caps!!!!)
If you are doing option 1 then you may aswell do option 2 instead!
Option 3 it the cheaper way of doing it!
I would also recommend that you get a Periodic Inspection Report done given that your electrical installation sounds to be quite old!!
So, you have 3 options as I see it:-
1. Following the route of your lighting circuit install an earth wire of an appropriate size (1.0mm singles should do it)
2. Rewire your lighting circuit
3. Replace all you Class 1 fittings with Class 2 (double insulated), supply your lighting circuits via a RCD and attach a warning label to your consumer unit which states that only class 2 fittings are to be used (when changing the switches I would either use nylon screws or switches that have screw caps!!!!)
If you are doing option 1 then you may aswell do option 2 instead!
Option 3 it the cheaper way of doing it!
I would also recommend that you get a Periodic Inspection Report done given that your electrical installation sounds to be quite old!!
Hallo guys sorry its been a while (why must i work like a dog) but i did finally sort out the problem,simple the fuse in the ceiling light had gone could'nt beleive all that unessasary stress it was causing,anyway thanxs for all your help.Like they say if it was easy anyone could do it,cheers guys
Thanks LeeMArk. Good to have feedback.
So often we give out advice and never know if it worked!
So often we give out advice and never know if it worked!
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