New Oak Worktop

[R0gerTheD0dger]

Hi all,

Firstly thanks to all contributors for guidance and advice, I have just finished installing my new kitchen and it was put in with more than one visit to this site!

Last week I had my lovely new Oak worktop put in(got someone else to do it as I had never used a router or jig b4!). Unfortunately my swiss sink never made it in time so my fitter made the cut-out based on a technical spec sheet that I got online with all the dimensions - fingers crossed it fits when it arrives!

A couple of qs and concerns tho...

When I fit the sink, what should I seal the cut edges of the oak with? is just silicone sealant OK?

When the worktop went in, I noticed that the fitter didn't oil it other than at the cut edges. He said that it already had oil on it and he could tell from the feel and the colour of the wood where he cut it. Is this legit or was he spinning me a line?

How soon should I start oiling it? He gave me a tin of Danish oil, is this my best bet?

And what should I fix the top to the cabinets with? are screws OK or is there something else given that some movement should be allowed?

Anyway, thanks again, hopefully one day I'll be able to contribute with some useful tips too!

Cheers,

 

[squowse]

i would use a clear non-silicone sealant (doesn't interfere with the oil) like this for example http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9254341
if it has "paintable" and "cleans up with water" on the label you should be ok.

you will need some "stretcher plates" for holding the worktop down flat whilst allowing movement across the grain. either that or screw through slotted hole in the carcass underneath. leave the screws half a turn loose.

danish oil is used widely for tops (although some say it's not food safe). oils usually need a lot of coats and regular maintenance though. oak is very prone to black water and iron stains.
i would (an do) use osmo polyx oil myself. it forms more of a protective skin but still penetrates and nourishes the wood. like all oils apply it warm in very thin coats. (their worktop oil is the same stuff in a different tin).

if your fitter oiled the cut edges he sounds conscientious enough.

 

[R0gerTheD0dger]

Thanks squowse!

I think he was a pretty conscientious chap, just not sure of his ability! He also did the join at a 90 degree angle, when I had expected a kiind of butt joint or mitre?

Will definitely check out the Osmo oil though, have heard so many different opinions on it, and a million horror stories on how hard an oak top is to keep in good condition, I'm starting to wish I hadn't bothered!

Thanks again for the quick response, does any one else have any ideas/views?

 

[squowse]

square edged worktops just need a good butt joint but solid wood shouldn't be glued (restrains movement across the grain).
if there is a profile on the edge that is to be kept (laminate worktop) then a masons mitre is used.
with solid wood the edge profile is usually put on after with a router if desired.

 

[mointainwalker]

@ squowse

would use a clear non-silicone sealant (doesn't interfere with the oil) like this for example http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9254341
if it has "paintable" and "cleans up with water" on the label you should be ok

.


When you say ",,doesn't interfere with the oil..." do you mean that it will stick on an oiled surface ?

 

[squowse]

i would oil afterwards if possible, or clean off the surface oil first.
scrubbing with detergent could be the safest way of doing that without damaging the adjacent surface.
top the oil up again afterwards. unlike silicone this sealant will not repel the oil.

 

[cyclonebri1]

I would be very inclined to invest in a few stainless screws to fix the worktop, mild steel or failed platedted screw will turn oak black, and that can come through from below.