New Radiator. Pipes need moving out.

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Replacing an old Radiator as part of Decorating a Room.
Valves further apart on the new Rad.

The Pipes move so I widened the Pipe Holes in the Floorboard
If I move the Right Pipe Right it pulls the Left Pipe Right???

Lifted the Floor. The Feed and Return come down the middle of the Room at 90 Deg to the Middle of the Rad and then elbow Left and Right.
However....
Feed is on the Right and elbows Left.
Return is on the Left and elbows Right.

Pipes are sat side by side in notches in the Joists.
I can move the pipes so one sits tightly on top of the other and would allow me to fit the Rad.
The Pipes sit slightly proud of the Joist.
I have a feeling this is not the way to go.

Have never Soldered CH/Water before and don't have any Kit.
Plenty of Circuit Boards and quite a bit of Silver Soldering in the distant past.

Compressions and Speed Fit a bit chunky so may not fit. Are they even suitable?
Comfortable draining, fitting Valves, etc.
Any bright ideas please?
 
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Plumb the radiator backwards, it's unlikely to have any negative effect, one radiator in our house is plumbed 'backwards' for some reason and everything works fine
 
Plumb the radiator backwards, it's unlikely to have any negative effect, one radiator in our house is plumbed 'backwards' for some reason and everything works fine

Presume you mean TRV on the Return?
One of mine is like that as the Feed is in an enclosed Corner. Works fine :)

The problem is that the Valves are too close together to fit the new Rad.
Swapping TRV/Lockshield won't solve that unless I have misunderstood your advice?
 
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Pics

First one is how it was when I lifted the Boards.

Second is with the one Pipe moved on top of the other.
Pipes are touching (bad/noisy?) and higher than the joist (Joist or Board would need notching)
 

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Don't cross them just a good way of creating noise
Take another board up and if necessary use 2 sockets to extend.
If you don't fancy soldering use tectite fittings (avaliable at screwfix) slimmer profile than plastic push fit.

Cheers Exedon :)

Obvious if I had thought about it properly!
I was incorrectly thinking I would need to replace the Elbows that are in the Pics.
The Pipes and Nuts to the Valves are a bit manky, so will renew those at the same time.

Are Speedfit OK to use on Copper in Central Heating?
With your solution there is more space than I thought and I think I have some JG Elbows and Couplers in the Shed.
 
Might be best to cut the pipes and swap them round then swap valves over to mantain direction of flow. Not a big fan of pushfit under floors but if you must do ensure the pipe is supported to stop strain on the joints.(y)
 
Is the new rad a standard type or designer/ladder?. If standard, direction os of no consequence and tRV's are now mainky bi directional. If a ladder rad or designer, ot may be flow directionally sensitive
 
Presume you mean TRV on the Return?
One of mine is like that as the Feed is in an enclosed Corner. Works fine :)

The problem is that the Valves are too close together to fit the new Rad.
Swapping TRV/Lockshield won't solve that unless I have misunderstood your advice?

I was suggesting run the pipe on the left to the left of the rad and the pipe on the pipe to the right, it will make little difference to the radiator working
 
Thanks Footprints and FiremanT,

Standard Kudox Rad from Screwfix. 1000 x 600 Double Panel. Like for Like replacement (almost).

Probably a good idea to swap the Pipes over.
Have heard/read TRVs can on occasion get noisy if not on the Feed.
Can't believe whoever installed it interlocked the Pipes. :confused:

A very handy Colleague has previously offered to lend me his Soldering Gear.
Perhaps I should do it properly?
 
Just one tip if you do decide to solder ensure every and I mean every drop of water is drained from the pipe, even a tiny dribble will stop the joint forming properly(y)
 

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