New range cooker - separate circuit?

[James1893]

I bought a new duel fuel range cooker last week to replace a knackered gas cooker, without thinking about the electrical implications. The kitchen currently just has standard plug sockets.

Being an electrical noob, it's not clear to me whether I can just replace one of the standard sockets with a double pole switch or whether a dedicate cooker circuit is neeeded.

The cooker is a Kenwood CK305, electrical instructions available here on page 36 : http://kenwood-cookers.co.uk/pdf/1104329.pdf

Excerpt from insturctions:

With your new Fan oven it is possible to cook a variety of food using the 2 different cooking functions. The 2 positions, thermostatically controlled, are obtained by 2 heating
elements.
• Grill element 2200 W
• Circular element 2500 W

The appliance must be connected to the electrical network verifying above all that the
voltage corresponds to the value indicated on the specifications plate and that the cables
section of the electrical plant can bear the load which is also indicated on the plate.
It is recomended that the appliance is connected directly to the mains by fixed wiring,
placing a double pole switch with minimum opening between the contacts of 3 mm.
Alternative connection methods may be available as long as they conform to current IEE
wiring regulation.

Any advice please?

 

[securespark]

Well, the instructions advise using 1.5mm² flexible cable to attach the appliance to the supply via a fused switched spur with an appropriate fuse in it.

The instructions do not mention total load. For this, you need to look on the ratings plate.

 

[riveralt]

According to the instructions while you have a potential element total of 4700w the oven controls will only allow one of the elements on at any one time.
So your maximum rating is 2500w which means you can just plug it into its existing socket using a 13A fused plug.
It is recommended, but not required, that an 13A fused connection unit be fitted but apart from possible access to the dp switch for isolation there is no difference between that and the plug you already have. So it is up to you.

 

[ericmark]

Since it says use a Fused Spur Outlet which we normally call a fused connection unit (FCU) it clearly only requires a 13A supply so as long as the plug is in free air there is not really a problem with just plugging it in.

I will admit the first time I saw duel fuel I though it could use either / or / both and did not realise it needed both supplies. I remember when we moved into this house 30 years ago my wife looking at a Cannon cooker ,which was duel fuel, the oven was either / or / both gas and microwave in the same oven. At £1000 I was glad she decided gas was not safe with children and got an electric cooker.

The ceramic hob cooker was finally replaced some 3 years ago with one which looks nearly the same with induction hob and multi-function oven so worth doing it right when they last over 25 years. So if it were me I would get a FCU fitted.

 

[JohnW2]

I will admit the first time I saw duel fuel I though it could use either / or / both and did not realise it needed both supplies.

I have only very rarely come across 'either/or' cookers. When the term "dual fuel" is used these days, does it not almost invariably mean the combination of a gas (only) hob and an electric (only) oven?

Kind Regards, John

 

[James1893]

Thanks all for your help. I'll double check the ratings plate tonight and report back. Likely to go down the FCU route if indeed the maximum is 2500w.

Cheers,

James

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks all for your help. I'll double check the ratings plate tonight and report back. Likely to go down the FCU route if indeed the maximum is 2500w.

If the manufacturers are talking about connection via an FCU and/or plug/socket (both 13A max), the maximum power requirement must be 3000W or less. As has been said, there is no difference, electrically, between using a plug (13A fuse)/socket and a FCU (with 13A fuse in it) - so it's really a matter of personal preference.

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

Except manufacturers' instructions mention using an FCU and the regs say the installer should take the MI's into account when installing.

The MI's also say the switch has to be accessible when the cooker is insitu.

 

[JohnD]

They also say:

"Alternative connection methods may be available as long as they conform to current IEE wiring regulation."

A plug and socket are especially convenient for a householder to use when replacing or moving an appliance, e.g. to clean behind it or catch the mice, and don't give much scope for connecting it wrongly.

I do agree that it is sensible to have the switch close to the appliance and in plain sight, so you can quickly turn it off if something goes wrong.

 

[JohnW2]

Except manufacturers' instructions mention using an FCU and the regs say the installer should take the MI's into account when installing. The MI's also say the switch has to be accessible when the cooker is insitu.

Fair enough - the OP can "take those MIs into account"! In fact, it is a 'recommendation' (even if they can't spell it ), not an 'instruction', and it is acknowledged that "alternative connections methods" could be acceptable (and they think the IEE still publish the Wiring Regs!)

It is recomended that the appliance is connected directly to the mains by fixed wiring, placing a double pole switch with minimum opening between the contacts of 3 mm. Alternative connection methods may be available as long as they conform to current IEE wiring regulation. ... Once the cooker has been installed, the switch must always be accessible.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

It must be my age. I was brought up with multi-fuel power stations able to burn, blast furnace gas, coke oven gas, coal or oil taken from the Germans after the war. Even the living room fire had a gas poker. Burning on coal, coke, or wood is still common today for water heating.

I personally can't see why we use gas? In the oven OK it has moisture, but little control all you do is adjust the amount of energy used there is no thermostatic control even the old coke fired ranges had a thermostat on the oven door. As to the hob they heat the kitchen great, but idea is to heat the food not the kitchen. I am told the cooks sweat adds to the flavour likely only salt that goes into food today, however personally I like a cool kitchen where heat goes into food not the kitchen. Also with gas huge extractor fans are required to remove fumes, water and heat these are not really required with an induction hob.

However I must admit using a wok with electric is near impossible and to have a domino system with a wok burner does make some sense. Also silly touch controls often spoil what would other wise be a good hob, and for some unknown reason they are often fitted proud of the work top so any spills contaminates any food left on the counter. I want spills confined to the hob.

But my point was about description often not what one expects. I have seen range cookers with an electric hot plate which seems to be returning to 1950's idea of a kettle always on the corner of the range. I know at one time there was a move to oil fired ranges less work than loading with coal, coke, wood, charcoal or peat. But the old range cooker often has removable bricks to expand or reduce the fire box to allow it to use duel or even more fuels.

 

[JohnW2]

I personally can't see why we use gas?

With the possible exception of induction hobs (of which I have no experience) or 'halogen' ones (which seem to have fallen out of fashion) gas hobs are incredibly more 'controllable' than electric ones. The thing I understand a bit less is why, having decided one wants a gas hob, one doesn't have a gas oven as well (like in the olden days), but that doesn't seem very fashionable these days.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ovens do not need the responsiveness of a hob, and electric ovens do not have any of the drawbacks of electric hobs.

And of course gas ovens have thermostats.

 

[JohnW2]

Ovens do not need the responsiveness of a hob, and electric ovens do not have any of the drawbacks of electric hobs.

That's all true, and surely underlines my question as to why many/most people who (IMO reasonably) want gas hobs don't seem to want gas ovens to go with them?

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnD]

electric fan ovens can give a very regular and accurate heat, and are quicker than natural convection ovens. Timers for electric ovens are very easy to include, with duration and on and off times.