New Roof Advice

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I'm thinking of having a new roof fitted to my 1920s 3-Bed Semi which still has it's original clay tile roof and need some advice.

1. Weight
I'd like the look of the roof to stay the same and the nearest I can find is Redland 49 however this is a concrete tile. It weighs around 50Kg/m2. Is that going to be an OK replacement for my clay tiles? Will I need to strengthen the roof?

View media item 40558
there are 2 struts either side (front/back) but some are split. I think they've been like that since we moved in 10 years ago :oops: . The existing tiles are similar interlocking clay.

View media item 40563
2. Condensation / Ventilation
With a vapour permeable underlay e.g. Klober Permo forte, do I need any ventilation or can I just have an unventilated loft?

3. Price
What should I expect to pay a roofer roughly?

Thanks
 
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I'm thinking of having a new roof fitted to my 1920s 3-Bed Semi which still has it's original clay tile roof and need some advice.
Is there anything wrong with the original roof tiles?
there are 2 struts either side (front/back) but some are split.
Put in wood glue & screws and sash cramps to tighten the split, they are avaiable for tools hired or they are not that expensive to buy
can I just have an unventilated loft?
It's important that the loft is ventilated to control condensation
 
Hi Masona,
Thanks for the reply.

Yeah there are several reasons I'm thinking of re-roofing. Firstly the survey we had done 10 years ago when we bought the place said the roof would need replacing within 5 years :oops: . Now I can see a few of the tiles are broken (snapped in 2) or have holes in so water is entering the loft. Also there's splinters of clay collecting on the insulation where they have fallen from the underside of the tiles. I'm guessing this means that the tiles are falling appart gradually.

All added up I came to the conclusion that we needed a new roof.

I'll give the screws and glue a go. Am I right in thinking that the screws go perpendicular to the crack, from one side of the crack to the other i.e. from top right to bottom left on that picture, through the centre of the wood?

Cheers
 
All added up I came to the conclusion that we needed a new roof.
Is it possible for another photo of the roof tiles outside?

I'll give the screws and glue a go. Am I right in thinking that the screws go perpendicular to the crack, from one side of the crack to the other i.e. from top right to bottom left on that picture, through the centre of the wood?
Pre-drill and screws in the centre of 2" thickness, if it doesn't tighten up after cramping then timber on each side with screws or nuts/bolts or you can just replace the whole timber but only if you know how to support the roof purlin temporary while replacing
 
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For the split timber, glue and screw a piece of ply over it, or fix a 100mm square nailing plate to it
 
I would not do any thing to the supporting strut if it has been like that for a long time. when you get the roof done the roofer can replace it when he has unloaded the roof.
 
Because a roofer with any thing about him will investigate why it has split, and how much is a new strut going to cost anyway.
 
I doubt very much that a roofer (who felts and tiles roofs) will know anything about the actual roof structure

That strut has split because it is the wrong side of that purlin, and as the purlin has deflected it has pulled the strut. The strut should be the other side so that the purlin sits in the notch, not under it

Better to spend 2 minutes fixing a plate to it than 10 minutes measuring timber, cutting notches and angles to each end, fixing it and risking disturbing the ceiling below
 
....the nearest I can find is Redland 49 however this is a concrete tile. It weighs around 50Kg/m2. Is that going to be an OK replacement for my clay tiles? Will I need to strengthen the roof?

Clay tiles are about 60 kg/m2, so you are lightening the load
 
You will pay more for clay tiles but are better quality and weigh less than concrete tiles
 

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