New skirting boards, not flat, best way to fix and fit

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I bought some new boards but on unpacking them they are a bit bowed vertically, so they don't fit flush to the wall when I try to fit them. They are plain unfinished wood which I want to varnish so I could do with straightening them and getting a good fit to avoid any unsightly filler.

Any advice as to the best way to straighten them and fit nice and flush?
 
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black - if you mean they're bowed along their length, don't worry! Fix via rawlplug and screws - the screws will draw the s/board snuggly to the wall. Tip - counterbore the screw holes so the screws sit below the surface, then fill the hole above the screw with wooden plugs to match. Get a set of these (or similar singles) to do the job: www.screwfix.com/prods/35920/Drill-...Sets/Disston-Screwdigger-Plug-Cutter-Set-4-Pc

If they're bowed (vertically??) use an inclined length of timber resting on the top of the s/b, the other end on the floor, using your knee on this inclined piece press down to relieve the bend then fix as above. This method is better done with 2 people, one to press on the lever the other to wield the tools.
 
Thanks for the reply I may not have explained it very well, they are bowed along their height rather than length. The top and bottom sit out from the wall with the centre touching, in profile a bit like a bow. I want to varnish rather than paint so had intended fixing using "no more nails" or similar, if I do end up with the top sticking out I want to fill the gap with something that will match the pine or the paint.
 
For get no more nails and use nails! You will never really notice the head of a small wirecut or masonary nail. put them in at a slight angle to stop the bow pulling them out. i.e. if you are looking at the skirting from above with the nail against it put it in like this ________\_________
 
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black - Ah, it's clear now ... your skirtings are 'cupped', quite a common problem with the stuff obtained from the sheds (the clue was "unpacking them".) You'll be very lucky to pull these flat against the wall, however, there is a solution. You'll need a circular saw ... make a series of cuts (3 or 4) equally spaced on the back surface of the s/boards; these grooves should be approx 1/2 way through the thickness of the s/board and run the whole length. By doing this you'll be able to pull the s/boards flat. Usually, the more expensive timber s/boards have these grooves factory produced so cupping isn't an issue.
 
A guide to the different methods of converting logs into usable timber outlining the properties and yield of each. The guide includes flaws, defects and movement problems in natural timber.

"From Tree to Timber"
 
Thanks. They are indeed cupped. Perhaps I need to go and get some decent boards rather than the ones from B & Q. I bought them in a pack of 4 and have used one so I can't return them, firewood anyone?
 
Ah but you can still return them.
Find your receipt and take em back, say that your not satisfied with them. (B&Q promise)
You will get a refund based on the 3 left.
They should not have been cupped, simple as.

Then go get some decent stuff from a woodyard.
 
Matty, Done as you suggested, took it back, they gave me a refund on the stuff I hadn't used and I then went to Jewsons and bought some proper stuff, the difference is astonishing. It looks better and it's flat. You do indeed get what you pay for :) Unfortunately it differs slightly from the B & Q cack that I have on one wall but most of that's hidden by furniture. So it'll do.
 

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