New Wood Floorboards

[JohnD]

I've read the other posts, but not seen quite my question.

I have a 20-year old house, I think the flooring must have been fitted by the apprentice while his boss was down the pub. It's T&G chipboard, one sheet is upside down so levels don't match, lots of joins aren't over joists so relied on the tongue which has since broken. Obviously, under the sink and bath it's turned into weetabix from water drips.

I'm so annoyed that I want to rip it our, I'm thinking about WBP Ply (much more rigid and strong and won't fall apart if dripped on) or, in my main room, 20mm Maple boards. The suppliers instructions talk about it being nailed to a subfloor, is there any reason why I shouldn't screw it to the joists after removing the chipboard?

BTW I will remove and fit new skirting. I also like to have a couple of removable boards without tongues round the outside of the room so I can get at cables and pipes. I'll take any advice on noise reduction, too - I was thinking of packing fibreglass between the joists.

Apart from repairs, I haven't ftted a floor for many years, when I was a builders lad and wedged and nailed a lot of square-edged softwood floors. I think I'll hire a floorboard cramp this time, and possibly pellet over the screw heads.

What comments. please?

 

[WoodYouLike]

What ever you do DON'T screw the boards down! Floorboards and screws is a definite NO NO.
You can either secret nail the boards on the joist (as long as every board 'covers' minimum 3 joists), or when using a subfloor install floating (or even glueing down to the subfloor if you really want to).

 

[JohnD]

Excuse my ignorance, but why are screws wrong?






(flooring is one of the many things I don't know much about - i thought it would be neat, easy to lift if needed, and a firm fixing)

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi John

Wood works: expands and shrinks. Screws will stop this natural movement and can result in split boards etc.
Nails (proper ones) will hold the board in place, but allows this natural movement to take place (hence sometimes the screaking noises when the board 'lifts' the nail a bit out).

Neither nails nor glueing ('sticking down') will prevent the natural seasonal movement of wood. If you replace the chipboard with new or other material you can easily install the wooden floor floating (glueing the T&G's together) and use sound-insulation (underlayment) underneath the boards.

 

[JohnD]

Thanks. I didn't really want to put new chipboard down after I take the bad stuff up - as it would be additional cost and raise the floor level - will it be OK to nail to the joists? I think I know the kind of nailer to use, it puts them in at an angle through the edge of the board.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Right you are: Portanailer or the likes, every hire centre should have them.

 

[Bylough]

Hi, May I ask. in relation to this post. Is it ok to screw just 2 boards (100mm t&g) 9 foot long- side by side- for access points? Would you think these will be ok for a while anyway, as I have just relayed the whole floor, had carpet cleaned and underlay nailed down (also installed fibreglass insulation to 90% of joist space). If you say NO - there's a river near by!. (I used those gold coloured c/s screws, threaded all the way up- fairly thin stem)
Thanks for any reply.

 

[WoodYouLike]

In your case it will be fine

Just keep an eye out for cupping. If that happens, you'll know what do do

 

[Bylough]

Thanks again, WoodYouLike- that's what I was hoping for.(Phew-ie!!!)