No heating

[bullethead123]

Hi I have a Remeha Advanta boiler which is not switching on in CH mode. HW is fine.
I've switched off/on at the spur and the 'cycle up' thing happens. The 3 min purge happens but then it stops and no further stages of the 'cycle up' happen as the manual describes (and as I've seen in the past) the hot water is fine though.

 

[bullethead123]

After the FXX & PXX alternate messages disappear a single dot is displayed and nothing more happens. When I press the enter button 0 appears, indicating boiler is in standby. The thermostat is calling for heat and the hot water still works though so I'm a little confused.

 

[ianmcd]

Bridge your room thermostat out and see if it fires

 

[bullethead123]

Thanks Ian, it's a wireless type of thermostat. Would I need to do that at the reciever?

 

[Stuckinarut]

Thanks Ian, it's a wireless type of thermostat. Would I need to do that at the reciever?

Have you tried replacing the batteries for good quality alkaline ones? Yes, you can bridge at receiver, join the common and switch live

 

[ericmark]

A quick look at the manual shows three types of control, extra low voltage, low voltage (mains) or opentherm, so it will depend on which method you are using, however on my boiler the hubs or receivers have a button on them, which I can press to turn on boiler even if the thermostat has discharged batteries, does yours have a over ride button of some sort?

If not using OpenTherm you can likely fit a bridge wire at the hub/receive/heat link what ever it is called with your system, but not sure if you can do that with OpenTherm?

You may notice I have three thermostats, the old bottom one only does the flat under the main house, the top one (Nest) the thermostat is powered by hard wiring so will not have a discharged battery, but the Wiser one to right needs a charged battery in the wall thermostat, it does show battery state but it is not easy to find the page on the app which shows it. And I tend to use Google home to control, which shows so very easy not to realise when the battery is getting low. And my old house I know from bitter experience the thermostat stopped working before the discharged battery icon would show.

 

[martygturner]

What wireless thermostat do you have

 

[bullethead123]

Salus model RT500RF

 

[bullethead123]

Have you tried replacing the batteries for good quality alkaline ones? Yes, you can bridge at receiver, join the common and switch live

Yep. Fresh Duracell batteries were fitted. The old ones were low - the display was faint and replace batteries indicator was on. Changed the batteries and no difference. Reset the thermostat and set time temp etc and still the same

 

[bullethead123]

Have you tried replacing the batteries for good quality alkaline ones? Yes, you can bridge at receiver, join the common and switch live

Yep. Fresh Duracell batteries were fitted. The old ones were low - the display was faint and replace batteries indicator was on. Changed the batteries and no difference. Reset the thermostat and set time temp etc and still the sam

A quick look at the manual shows three types of control, extra low voltage, low voltage (mains) or opentherm, so it will depend on which method you are using, however on my boiler the hubs or receivers have a button on them, View attachment 366180 which I can press to turn on boiler even if the thermostat has discharged batteries, does yours have a over ride button of some sort?

If not using OpenTherm you can likely fit a bridge wire at the hub/receive/heat link what ever it is called with your system, but not sure if you can do that with OpenTherm?

You may notice I have three thermostats, the old bottom one only does the flat under the main house, the top one (Nest) the thermostat is powered by hard wiring so will not have a discharged battery, but the Wiser one to right needs a charged battery in the wall thermostat, it does show battery state View attachment 366181 but it is not easy to find the page on the app which shows it. And I tend to use Google home to control, which shows View attachment 366182 so very easy not to realise when the battery is getting low. And my old house I know from bitter experience the thermostat stopped working before the discharged battery icon would show.

When the thermostat is calling for heat the green led is on, when I set the temp lower thsn current room temp, it goes off. There is also an audible click. I think the thermostat circuit is working.
Can't get away frim the start up sequence not completing when I switch off/on at the spur. There is a facility to set the boiler to HW only, CH only or HW & CH. Non

 

[bullethead123]

setting the boiler ia any of the modes makes no difference to the the start up sequence not completing and yet there is no error code. Just a dot in the display.
Guess I'm gonna have to call a heating eng.

 

[Exedon]

When you change battery's that have stopped working you need to leave them out for at least 30 minutes.
There is a capacitor inside stat that needs to discharge.
To be blunt salus ain't the best.

 

[ericmark]

I also had a problem with Salus seems a few names are used on the same thermostat this one says Horstmann, but seen same one with Salus badge, and it lost the RF link.

Both mothers old house and this house, I had two thermostats in parallel, both homes I found weather conditions changed which was the coolest room, now I have Wiser hub fitted I can use linked TRV heads, but not done that yet, but it does mean if a thermostat fails, I have not lost heating, I used a cheap thermostat in last house, the flat battery icon would not light, and the relay would click, but it would not work until batteries replaced, and you could bet I could not find two AA batteries to test with, this is why I selected Nest Gen 3 which is mains powered. However even then it still has back up battery fitted, rechargeable, and when I turned the boiler off so the plumber could work on cold pipework, when I turned it back on, had to wait 15 minutes for battery to charge before we could turn the boiler back on to test it.

So this is why I like the idea of two thermostats. Pictures show hub/heat link the actual thermostats are in hall and living room, the one you can see only works heating in the flat where the boiler is.

The picture you show seems to be an oil boiler, so seems I got the wrong one? Personally I would short out the contacts in the thermostat to prove if thermostat or not, easy for me to say, I am an electrician, Instructions for the thermostat show

and

I would make a link 1 to 2 and see if boiler works OK then, so proving the thermostat is the problem or not. In the unit that looks like this

I am showing pictures just in case I am looking at wrong set of instructions.