No money to finish the job - how can I smooth a wall?

[skimt]

Hi

I had a plasterer put up some plasterboard in a room that will be mostly covered up with shelves. He hasn't skimmed it, in fact, it hasn't even been taped. I then lost my job, so I paid him for the work he has done with apologies that I couldn't afford the rest of his job, which I am relieved to say he was nice about. He is a gent.

I can't afford to get the job finished professionally.javascript:emoticon('') Is there any way I can finish the job without having it skimmed, which I can't do myself, but so it still looks ok? Is there some kind of thick paint that could roll on smoothly after the joints have been filled or taped - maybe some kind of exterior paint might do it? Or any other ideas?

Many thanks for any suggestions.

 

[gregers]

tape and fill with filler then sand then paint with emulsion.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Are the board joints tapered edged or square edge.
An application called joint taping can be used on both types of edge but tapered edged boards are best for this, the joints are taped (I would use the nylon reinforced, self adhesive tape)

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 28 Feb 2010
• 4

Then the joint cement (easifill) can be applied to the joints, this will need to be sanded and replied about three times to get a good even surface.
Then the wall needs to be primed with a dilute mix of emulsion.
But to honest, this is not something for the novice to take on, it is a skilled job and can look a pigs ear if not done correctly.
Skimming the wall would be much quicker and less messy, plus would leave a better surface finish and the difference in cost would not be that much.

 

[1john]

try and skim it, if it;s covered in shelves then it wont be the end of the world if it isnt spot on. If you read through the forum here you will pick up loads of tips for skimming and that should give you more confidence.

 

[skimt]

Are the board joints tapered edged or square edge.
An application called joint taping can be used on both types of edge but tapered edged boards are best for this, the joints are taped (I would use the nylon reinforced, self adhesive tape)

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 28 Feb 2010
• 4

Then the joint cement (easifill) can be applied to the joints, this will need to be sanded and replied about three times to get a good even surface.
Then the wall needs to be primed with a dilute mix of emulsion.
But to honest, this is not something for the novice to take on, it is a skilled job and can look a pigs ear if not done correctly.

Thanks for your advice. The Joints are square edge. The plasterboard is the type with an insulated backing. I can't see how I can add the tape and paint it as the tape will make a bump. I am willing to try anything but I don;t have a lot of money to replace anything if I mess up the boards.

 

[squarenut9]

try and skim it, if it;s covered in shelves then it wont be the end of the world if it isnt spot on. If you read through the forum here you will pick up loads of tips for skimming and that should give you more confidence.

I have to agree with 1John. I had the problem of a really good plasterer but was too unreliable. He actually showed me and advised me how to do it because he had too much work on. I was crap at first but thank God for filler. You will only learn by trying. Have a go. If it won't be seen don't worry. The filler I used was ready mixed jointing plaster by Wicks. But 10 years later I am still doing my own plastering. I still aint an expert but it looks OK.

The main thing my mate pointed out was to keep the trowel wet and don't keep going over it.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Thanks for your advice. The Joints are square edge. The plasterboard is the type with an insulated backing. I can't see how I can add the tape and paint it as the tape will make a bump. I am willing to try anything but I don;t have a lot of money to replace anything if I mess up the boards.

That's the problem as it is not a tapered edge, it can be feathered out to look flat, it never will be though.
It's a lot of messing about for a novice, I would go with the plastering option.

 

[joe-90]

If it had been me doing the work and you lost your job - I'd have finished it for free. I'm sure most of the guys in here would have done. Well guys?

 

[Micilin]

If it had been me doing the work and you lost your job - I'd have finished it for free. I'm sure most of the guys in here would have done. Well guys?

For what it's worth on the internet, I would have skimmed a wall or two to help out - what goes around comes around!!

 

[Richard C]

If it had been me doing the work and you lost your job - I'd have finished it for free. I'm sure most of the guys in here would have done. Well guys?

Got to admit I can be a bit of a sucker so, yes I would have; it sounds like only one wall so 2 hours in & out I would have walked away with "pay me when your back in work" & put my trust in what goes around comes around; something that seems to be sadly lacking these days!

 

[gregers]

personally i wouldve questioned whether the cheque youve just given me,wasnt made of rubber.










no coz i wouldnt,
i wouldve helped you out,that way my name wouldnt be mud and perhaps you would recommend me to friends and family in being a fair and just person.

 

[1john]

Yeh i agree, if it was just one wall or that its only gonna cost you about a fiver in materials and a couple of hours to do so i would have skimmed it for you ( in a fashion) (i'm no pro plastered).

Seriously have a go, it wont hurt and you may find yourself on the way to a new career by accident

 

[skimt]

Thank you guys, maybe if I'd tried to persuade the guy but I was too embarrassed. I'm really impressed by everyone's helpful comments and could believe that you'd have finished it. I'm trying to decide between just filling the joints with Tetrion, sanding it smooth and then using a heavy lining paper, or whether to have a crack at plastering it - maybe crack is the wrong word!! Since much of it won;t be visible, I don't think it matters that much, so maybe I'll just paper.
Thanks to you all for your help.

 

[1john]

thing is if you paper it you will have trouble getting the paper off in the future, if you skim it andit isnt brill you can paint it and when money allows it can be re-skimmed.

 

[Richard C]

Don’t stick lining paper on it unless you seal the boards & then -----


don’t stick lining paper on it . It’s awful stuff at the best of times but the big problem is that you can’t plaster over paper; if you decide to have it skimmed later & can’t get it all off, you’ll be into re-boarding again.