4 bed detached house. Had a chemical flush, new vaillant boiler, manga clean & inhibitor fitted. August 2011. System is pressurised, new cylinder in loft, boiler not combi, rads downstairs on micro bore. Some rads cool at bottom. Boiler now noisy. 4 (3 by vaillant engineers) attempts made to resolve noise by resetting gas ratios. Noise has changed but remains, intermittent howling type noise, seems worse in bedroom above boiler. Latest engineer drained off small amount of water and stated unexceptable quality n power flush required. Also said he could hear slight kettling noise, not mentioned by previous 3 engineers. Ratio set to 7.1%. What I am concerned about is that if I have a power flush what guarantee is there that the water quality issues will not return as I have only treated the symptoms? The water was clear on installation of new boiler. Boiler was serviced at 12 months, manga clean practically clean. Also, if flush has no impact on the noise isn't it a waste of money? Is there any cheaper action I can take to prove if the water is acceptable? Would appreciate views on what to do next.
Noisy vailant ecotec 415 & power flush help please.
- Thread starter clairol
- Start date
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Whenever I install a new boiler on an old system I powerflush the system. This should be done after all pipework is finished then the whole system is cleaned without the new boiler included in the system. This protects the new boiler from old dirt. If your plumber power flushed the system with boiler connected and included then he also reverse flushed as well. There will now be sludge from old system in the new boilers heat exchanger both in normal flow direction and reverse flow direction. So if that was done by the power flushing, ask him if he had the boiler connected if you didn't see it done. If he did it is his responsibility to now do some reverse and forwards flushing of the boiler to clean the heat exchanger. So get him to sort it out and there should be no charge. and a Merry Christmas.
A chemical flush, not a power flush was done on installation, as per the installation instructions, do I still have any come back on the fitter please? He only guaranteed his work for 12 months. Thanks for posting.
a chemical flush of an old system on a new boiler is wrong, the M I recommends that on new systems I believe. and if done with the new boiler connected the pump pumps the rubbish the boiler before it is drained which traps some of it in the new heat exchanger which are made with smaller pathways for the water than the old boilers had so they trap stuff easier. If he is ignorant of this then he needs to pay for someone to correct it with a machine. The only fortunate part is the heat exchanger only needs the water pumped in the opposite direction and dumped to cure problem. I have done this myself about 6 months ago.
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The boiler only needs to be fitted onto a clean system!
In many cases a chemical flush is adequate and when a Manga clean ( sic ) is fitted that trapps any remaining dirt.
You seem to have a lot of different engineers coming to your house. If from firms like Homeserve or other cut price boiler insurance cover then they are often nupties and some get a commission if they persuade you to have an expensive power flush.
In your case the colour of the water will demonstrate the condition! What colour is it?
How often has the Manga Clean been emptied? How much dirt was in it?
You might be better paying an independent for an unbiased assessment!
Tony
In many cases a chemical flush is adequate and when a Manga clean ( sic ) is fitted that trapps any remaining dirt.
You seem to have a lot of different engineers coming to your house. If from firms like Homeserve or other cut price boiler insurance cover then they are often nupties and some get a commission if they persuade you to have an expensive power flush.
In your case the colour of the water will demonstrate the condition! What colour is it?
How often has the Manga Clean been emptied? How much dirt was in it?
You might be better paying an independent for an unbiased assessment!
Tony
Yes as long as the magnaclene was fitted before flushing it would trap MOST of the dirt but never 100% even the new type with the non magnetic filter is not an absolute guaranty by magnaclene to get 100% of the rubbish but enough to be acceptable. If it was the older type that just has the magnetic filter then it won't catch limescale type particles.
Thoughts pls.
It's looks as if it is clear of any particles, but the colour isn't just inhibitor, there is something else in it as well. but that does not tell you what is trapped in the heat exchanger.
Thanks for the laugh, I need it, boiler noise driving me mental.
Still need to know what is making my water this colour. Power flush could well be pointless if this colour comes back.
Is buying new rads a solution?
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G
gaswizzard
That'll be the reason for the howling , these should be set for around 9% CO2 , gas/air ratio is too lean.
It would seem that the chemical treatment may not have been completed properly!
As a cheap and simply try, then I would drain and flush twice and then add X100 inhibitor and set the CO² to about 8.8-9.2 and see how it behaves then.
As we often find, it seems you have had some nupties around!
BUT we dont know what is lurking inside the boiler!
That reddish colour can indicate newly oxidised iron and may result from a leak in the system or a leaking filling valve.
Tony
As a cheap and simply try, then I would drain and flush twice and then add X100 inhibitor and set the CO² to about 8.8-9.2 and see how it behaves then.
As we often find, it seems you have had some nupties around!
BUT we dont know what is lurking inside the boiler!
That reddish colour can indicate newly oxidised iron and may result from a leak in the system or a leaking filling valve.
Tony
I made a mistake when I said the rads were cold at the bottom. If I turn the room thermostat up 5 degrees they get hot all over. Does that mean they are sludge free ish or does sludge also get hot? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
Could a rusting radiator be the source of the rust in the water?. The filling valve is new, we r not aware of any leaks. Pressure remains constant according to valve on expansion vessel.
I have decided to cancel the power flush until I can get my water clean.
Could a rusting radiator be the source of the rust in the water?. The filling valve is new, we r not aware of any leaks. Pressure remains constant according to valve on expansion vessel.
I have decided to cancel the power flush until I can get my water clean.
We have tried the gas ratio a 8.2 but got high pitch annoying constant whining noise. We still have slight continuous whine and howl on start up at the lower ratio.
I challenged the engineer about setting it so low at he reassured me it was ok to do this.
I challenged the engineer about setting it so low at he reassured me it was ok to do this.
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