Notifiable work

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Hello

Hi everyone, I am new on the forum and would appreciate some advice. I have planned out my new kitchen and would like to know if, and what bits of the wiring work is notifiable. Here are the current and proposed wiring diagrams:

Wall 1 - before :
Wall 1 - after :
Wall 2 - before :
Wall 2 after :

Many thanks in advance. :)
 
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Only NEW circuits are notifiable, not alterations or extensions to existing ones.

However, you have a lot of wasted cable by poor routing.

All buried cable (unless installed by certain methods which you won't want to do) must be routed vertically or horizontally from the accessory to which they connect,
Also new cable runs and sockets must be protected by a 30mA RCD,
 
None of the work is notifiable.

As for the rest:

JB for lighting not required - replace the cable back to the light.
Other switches not required, isolation is achieved by unplugging the fridge/microwave/etc. on the single occasion in 5 years when it might need to be replaced/repaired.
No point wasting metres of cable up and down the walls.
Empty box on the cooker feed not required either.

Optional change which is not shown - cooker hood could go on the lighting circuit and therefore no need for FCU.
 
Thanks very much for you replies, this is very helpful. I will have a re-think about the runs and maybe try to speak to an electrician for some better ideas.
 
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JB for lighting not required - replace the cable back to the light.
Other switches not required, isolation is achieved by unplugging the fridge/microwave/etc. on the single occasion in 5 years when it might need to be replaced/repaired.
No point wasting metres of cable up and down the walls.
Empty box on the cooker feed not required either.

Optional change which is not shown - cooker hood could go on the lighting circuit and therefore no need for FCU.[/quote]

Thanks, this is really helpful and will save lots of time. With the cooker wire, would it be OK to have the dog-leg without the box? I guess it is still within the safe zones. There is a joist under the floor which is why I've planned it this way. :)
 
As above have covered electrical work in England within kitchens will only require notification if a new circuit or/and a new consumer unit is to be installed. So extending or adding to existing circuits is not required to be notified, they will however still require to have a certificate either using minor works or electrical installation forms.
RCD protection if not existing on the circuits will be required for socket outlets and any buried cable less than 50mm (check the requirements for maximum depths of chases, within structural walls) and not mechanically protected (metal capping does not qualify as mech protection).
Also again as been mentioned the routing could be designed a little more efficiently as this will affect material costs and increase the Zs of the circuit.
There are number of occasion that your diagrams show cables running outside the permitted cable zones, so that would require to be amended, unless the cables are to be mechanically protected or buried at depth greater than 50mm (again building regs for chase depths must be complied to).
Try to avoid concealed joints, if this is not possible then those joints/junction must be by a method considered maintenance free (compliant to BS5733-MF) info on MF

 
Sorry about that. I think I have caused some confusion. I was trying to show that the microwave and fridge sockets would be spurs coming off the ring, and that I would maintain the ring for the two 2-way sockets. The actual physical routing would look like this:

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... so keeping within the safe zones.
 
Sorry about that. I think I have caused some confusion. I was trying to show that the microwave and fridge sockets would be spurs coming off the ring, and that I would maintain the ring for the two 2-way sockets. The actual physical routing would look like this: .... so keeping within the safe zones.
Fair enough. That is (functionally) the same as I suggested. However, I think you might have some problems getting all of those cables into, and through, single back boxes (at the grid switch and microwave socket). An arrangement such as I drew would probably be easier to implement from that point-of-view.

Kind Regards, John
 
Fair enough. That is (functionally) the same as I suggested. However, I think you might have some problems getting all of those cables into, and through, single back boxes (at the grid switch and microwave socket). An arrangement such as I drew would probably be easier to implement from that point-of-view.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks John, you are right, that is a really good idea :)
 

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