Oak worktop, undermount sink, flush fit, no drip groove, OK?

[pkwonder]

Square edged sink like this -

40mm thick Oak Butcher's Block worktop with no overhang/drip groove.

Bad idea?

 

[maltaron]

yes

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I have to say I'm not keen on oak worktops period, having had to remove near indellible stains from quite a few where people left iron/steel utensils (frying pans, cast iron pots, carbon steel knives) sitting on top of them in puddles of water (because they had no drain grooves - water+oak=tannic acid; tannic acid+iron=ferric oxide, an indelible black stain). Falling drainer grooves were traditionally put into worktops for a very good reason, and the timbers chosen (sycamore, beech, maple, etc) were equally chosen on grounds of practicality. I wish that modern designers wouild realise that it isn't just "tradition" which drove those choices

 

[maltaron]

To follow up my previous blunt comment, you can get drainers to sit on top of the worktop. They are available in plastic, stainless steel and wood on fleabay.

 

[northernstair]

I would say bad idea, but.... oak is used outside all the time on front/back doors etc... I would recommend a serious amount of yacht varnish to the end grain if I were doing this, also bare in mind that if your worktop is around 600mm (which Im guessing it is) then it will be laminated oak, therefore the join whether it be tongue and groove, dovetail whatever will more than likely open up in the future bringing in the need for a french polisher/ laquer professional, hope that helps, northern stair parts

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I would say bad idea, but.... oak is used outside all the time on front/back doors etc...

I quite agree - wonderful timber when used for framing joinery, structural work, etc. and capable of surviving for hundreds of years in structures like church lych gates........ which this isn't

I suppose that I should be more positive in my advice, so.....

Were I having to install this I'd cut and trim it to size, stain (if required) then give the underside and cut edges two coats of polyurethane wood hardener. This stuff, flatted back betwen coats with something like P180 alox paper or better still a "Scotch" pad (from Machine Mart). After that it can be given any top coat finish PK Wonder likes. although I'd suggest something like a couple of coats of Dulux Trade Diamond Glaze (satin) which will make it completely waterproof. I'd aso seal the joint between the underside of the worktop and the sink with a good quality anti-bacterial silicone sealant -

- and Id still argue the case for routing-in a falling drainer groove with the client

 

[pkwonder]

Hmm.

If I were to cut the aperture with a decent overhang, drip, and drainer grooves.....would several coats of Tung oil not be sufficient?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If I were to cut the aperture with a decent overhang, drip, and drainer grooves.....would several coats of Tung oil not be sufficient?

You don't really need the overhangs with drip grooves on the underside so long as you silicone the joint. Drain grooves or a drainer would certainly extend the life of the worktop, but if you want to use tung oil (or any oil finish) bear in mind that you need 3 to 5 coats to start with and the worktop needs to be kept dry (spills wiped up immediately, etc) as well as the finish "topped-up" regularly. Just been to a house this evening where I put in a beech worktop 7 or 8 years back. The worktop has black mould in places (poor ventilation) as well as lots of sttains because they never oiled it from day one. In fact the bottle is still in the cupboard beneath the sink almost unused. New owner wants a quote to do a "service", but requires a "fit and forget" finish......... Arghh!