OAK WORKTOPS
- Thread starter EXHIBIT
- Start date
Sponsored Links
DON't shout, we hear you 
Water marks can go very deep into oak: remedy is sanding and applying a new layer of oil, plus maintaining it on a regular base.
Water marks can go very deep into oak: remedy is sanding and applying a new layer of oil, plus maintaining it on a regular base.
The black marks are caused by tannin in the oak reacting with iron in the presence of water - result ferrous oxide. It is most certainly NOT a water mark and is chemical in origin. Removal: sand out and re-oil, if really bad may need to be bleached out using oxallic acid after sanding. The problem is caused by naturally occurring tannin in timbers such as oak, walnut, cherry and mahogany making this sort of damage almost inevitable. So why do those dumb kitchen/interior designers insist on using these timbers ('coz they're thick?). Long term solution: install or use auxilliary drainer over worktop and learn to wipe-up spills (especially tomatoes which contain iron compounds....) IMMEDIATELY
Scrit
Scrit
Sorry Scrit, didn't mean to say it was just a water mark, but like to keep things simple.
Working with Oak day in day out we know what deep 'marks' tap water can cause on surfaces.
Working with Oak day in day out we know what deep 'marks' tap water can cause on surfaces.
Sponsored Links
WoodYouLike said:
M
moderator
EXHIBIT, every post you have made to date, you type with caps lock on, you have been asked in every post to turn it off, please do so.
But in the vain hope you will read this, you will find your other posts no longer exist, because you never bother to reply.
Lynda, moderator
But in the vain hope you will read this, you will find your other posts no longer exist, because you never bother to reply.
Lynda, moderator
It's not the end of the world Lynda.
So you cut fingers twice?Scrit said:
Nah! Only ONCE......... and it was my thumbsWoodYouLike said:So you cut fingers twice?Scrit said:
I have the same problem with beech around the tap. tried bleech and it didn't work. also think sanding would have to go too deep. Am trying to convince the missus that a couple of hand painted tiles around the tap would be a good idea, inclined towards the sink...
Also, I don't think oil is good enough. Tried em all, tung, teak, danish - oil is not impermiable. It offers partial protection. As such the only means to prevent against staining is to keep it dry at all times, which is a stoopid proposition in a working kitchen - as opposed to sarah b**by's show homes.
Which is why the missus is at home as we speak armed with a ryobi orbital sander, priming the surface for a few coats of Ronseal Diamond Beech Stain Satin Varnish -- you know it makes sense!!!
Also, I don't think oil is good enough. Tried em all, tung, teak, danish - oil is not impermiable. It offers partial protection. As such the only means to prevent against staining is to keep it dry at all times, which is a stoopid proposition in a working kitchen - as opposed to sarah b**by's show homes.
Which is why the missus is at home as we speak armed with a ryobi orbital sander, priming the surface for a few coats of Ronseal Diamond Beech Stain Satin Varnish -- you know it makes sense!!!
4 coats duly applied - dries in an hour - and sanded between coats with a "between coats of varnish sanding pad" and I can honestly say, the moment you get bored of constantly re-oiling your oak worktop and being paranoid about getting water on it - varnish it!!!
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
