Hello all,
I have read all of the posts on here about what I am trying to find out but to no avail so far, so I'm sorry if this is a bit similar to what has already been asked.
I am training to be a plumber/gas engineer and am slowly getting to grips with things, but I have a problem with my own house that I cannot solve as yet.
I wondered if someone could help me with what may be wrong, and also why, so I know for next time.
The Ravenheat (yes I know, but it was installed by a (rubbish) gas engineer when I had the house done four years ago and before I started training) CSI 85BT has the following problem - the hot water will come on, boiler fires fine, gets warm enough to have a shower and then goes out.
The water will then get properly cold again for a significant amount of time (a minute or so) and then it will repeat the process.... I can usually get it to work and settle on a temperature if I start if off as a trickle, then turn the hot tap up a bit, but it usually takes a few goes of doing this to get an even flow, and even then it is not at a particularly high rate.
The central heating works absolutely fine, and to confuse me slightly more, if the central heating has been on for 5 minutes or so, the hot water will then work fine and a steady hot flow can be achieved.
This started after there was a leak a while ago which I rectified by tightening a weeping joint. I also (perhaps foolishly) used Fernox leak sealer at the time. It says that it is suitable for all boilers including combis but I have since heard that this could clog the heat exchangers.
To try and rectify this so far I have replaced the clip on CH sensor (recommended in several threads, but I don't fully understand why) and have bought a new DHW sensor (wet pocket one) and tried the boiler with the old one disconnected from the wires but in-situe and the new one plugged in but just 'swinging free' - my theory was that if this was the issue the boiler would just heat up to too hot a temperature and not cut out. But it just cut out in exactly the same way.
The diverter valve is working - pin coming in and out. (Just thinking out loud after re-reading the post before posting - could a minor split in the diaphragm washer be causing this? The pin would then presumably work more slowly than it should, slowing the activation of the switch?)
According to the other threads I have looked at the plate heat exchanger should be the next thing to look at (ie change) but I don't understand why it would work fine with the CH on and not with a cold system - if others agree with this and think it could be the problem could they explain why this would happen.
I want to understand and not just 'monkey see monkey do'. It seems to me that something is causing the boiler to cut out on the hw side when it has got to, or is approaching a sensible temperature at the bath taps then is not cutting the boiler back in fast enough when it gets cold - but only when the CH not on and warm....?
It is easier, incidentally, to get a steady hot flow at taps with a lower flow rate such as basin/sink, even when the system is cold.
Also, I presume on one of these style of boiler that it is supposed to modulate - ie the flame height will change with the flow of water - which it is not in this case - it just comes on or off, never changing flame height.
Now, just for finishers, I would just add that yes, I have done one of these intensive courses and yes I am aware that they are not all encompassing, but that is why I am here, asking what you guys would probably consider to be stupid questions - the plumber / heat engineer that I am doing my practical work with is very very good on the plumbing and with regular boilers but is not so good on diagnostics with new combis (ie electrical checks with multimeters etc.)
If there is anyone out there who focusses on this side of things in the Kent area who wants a slave to fetch and carry tools and and hang radiators and fix bathrooms within (relatively) easy reach of Tonbridge, Kent, please let me know as I catch on pretty quick and could be useful to you.
Any further comments or checks I can do please let me know and I can repost the response on here. Sorry it is such a long post, thought I'd try to get ALL the info I can think of on here.
Many thanks in advance.
I have read all of the posts on here about what I am trying to find out but to no avail so far, so I'm sorry if this is a bit similar to what has already been asked.
I am training to be a plumber/gas engineer and am slowly getting to grips with things, but I have a problem with my own house that I cannot solve as yet.
I wondered if someone could help me with what may be wrong, and also why, so I know for next time.
The Ravenheat (yes I know, but it was installed by a (rubbish) gas engineer when I had the house done four years ago and before I started training) CSI 85BT has the following problem - the hot water will come on, boiler fires fine, gets warm enough to have a shower and then goes out.
The water will then get properly cold again for a significant amount of time (a minute or so) and then it will repeat the process.... I can usually get it to work and settle on a temperature if I start if off as a trickle, then turn the hot tap up a bit, but it usually takes a few goes of doing this to get an even flow, and even then it is not at a particularly high rate.
The central heating works absolutely fine, and to confuse me slightly more, if the central heating has been on for 5 minutes or so, the hot water will then work fine and a steady hot flow can be achieved.
This started after there was a leak a while ago which I rectified by tightening a weeping joint. I also (perhaps foolishly) used Fernox leak sealer at the time. It says that it is suitable for all boilers including combis but I have since heard that this could clog the heat exchangers.
To try and rectify this so far I have replaced the clip on CH sensor (recommended in several threads, but I don't fully understand why) and have bought a new DHW sensor (wet pocket one) and tried the boiler with the old one disconnected from the wires but in-situe and the new one plugged in but just 'swinging free' - my theory was that if this was the issue the boiler would just heat up to too hot a temperature and not cut out. But it just cut out in exactly the same way.
The diverter valve is working - pin coming in and out. (Just thinking out loud after re-reading the post before posting - could a minor split in the diaphragm washer be causing this? The pin would then presumably work more slowly than it should, slowing the activation of the switch?)
According to the other threads I have looked at the plate heat exchanger should be the next thing to look at (ie change) but I don't understand why it would work fine with the CH on and not with a cold system - if others agree with this and think it could be the problem could they explain why this would happen.
I want to understand and not just 'monkey see monkey do'. It seems to me that something is causing the boiler to cut out on the hw side when it has got to, or is approaching a sensible temperature at the bath taps then is not cutting the boiler back in fast enough when it gets cold - but only when the CH not on and warm....?
It is easier, incidentally, to get a steady hot flow at taps with a lower flow rate such as basin/sink, even when the system is cold.
Also, I presume on one of these style of boiler that it is supposed to modulate - ie the flame height will change with the flow of water - which it is not in this case - it just comes on or off, never changing flame height.
Now, just for finishers, I would just add that yes, I have done one of these intensive courses and yes I am aware that they are not all encompassing, but that is why I am here, asking what you guys would probably consider to be stupid questions - the plumber / heat engineer that I am doing my practical work with is very very good on the plumbing and with regular boilers but is not so good on diagnostics with new combis (ie electrical checks with multimeters etc.)
If there is anyone out there who focusses on this side of things in the Kent area who wants a slave to fetch and carry tools and and hang radiators and fix bathrooms within (relatively) easy reach of Tonbridge, Kent, please let me know as I catch on pretty quick and could be useful to you.
Any further comments or checks I can do please let me know and I can repost the response on here. Sorry it is such a long post, thought I'd try to get ALL the info I can think of on here.
Many thanks in advance.