Oil boiler failt

[someonelse]

I've had a Eurocal Turco 2000 70/90 oil boiler for about 8 years.

Throughout that time it has had the intermittant fault of cutting out. It generally restarts when you press the re-set button, but occassionally you have to wait a half-hour or so.

For the last 4-5 years the same OFTEC engineer has serviced it, including a couple of extra one-off visits to look at this problem specifically, and normally after his visit things improve. Until it recurs.

He has changed the nozzle size to a smaller one, but thinks the problem is to do with overheating, hence it cuts out when it gets too hot and does not always immediately re-start if it's been running for a while.

Before I call him out again, has anyone any suggestions? Or should I try a different engineer?

 

[oilhead]

Which reset button are you pressing? The overheat thermostat or the burner reset?

 

[someonelse]

It's a 'Utility Boiler' so there is only a burner reset button.

 

[oilhead]

Try a different engineer. Overheating is not a normal problem with pressure jet burners on a boiler such as yours, unless the burner is getting extremely hot due to lack of ventilation.

 

[Boilerman2]

My money is on the Solenoid Coil, or Capacitor

 

[Biggles..]

I'd agree with that, faulting as they warm up.

 

[oilhead]

If the intermittent fault has persisted for 8 years, improving for a while after a service, whilst not ruling out a solenoid, it would seem that there is an underlying problem. A solenoid would have failed completely by now. Is your boiler a balanced flue? Could be air contamination in the intake.

 

[someonelse]

I believe he replaced solenoid a year or two back (not 100% sure).

Balanced flue.....? No idea. How do I check?

Boiler is in a small downstairs loo (door normally open) with a ventilation grill just above floor level and another in the ceiling (to attic above, which also is ventilated)

 

[Burnerman]

Typically with a balanced flue, the exhaust gas exits through a grille and the combustion air enters through slots in the same flue, i.e two passages in the same flue, which mustn't interconnect.
This means that the burner will be in its own box, and air supplied to it via internal trunking within the boiler or by a tube snorkel.
If the burner is in it's box, leave the box open and see if it behaves......it will draw it's combustion air from within the house so leave any cupboard doors open too.
John

 

[someonelse]

Engineer here.

Is going to try a new 'transformer' and see if that helps.... If not, he'll come back free and replace the original.

Also found 'flimsy electrodes, maybe off a gas boiler?' which he's replacing. Showed me mine, and the replacement which is definately more sturdy.

 

[oilhead]

The flimsy electrodes,(single units) are probably the original Minor items, which are now replaced by the composite block. The single units often used to lose their glue which resulted in the conductors rotating in the porcelain.

 

[someonelse]

One week on and the boiler works fine.

Not sure what transfomer does or why it was causing boiler to cut out, but hey! the engineer knew!

Thanks all.

 

[Burnerman]

The transformer, or igniter, provides high voltage at low current to produce the spark at the electrodes.
Signs of its demise include external sparking or swelling of the casing.
Pleased it's sorted!
John

 

[Terrywookfit]

A typical EBI fault.