Oil or water?

[brittas2009]

Hi

I have some pine bedside cabinets that we want to paint. I have sanded of the wax finish back to bare wood and am going to prime them with zinsser bin. With regards top coat, should I be looking to use an oil or water based eggshell ?. I thought I read somewhere that oil based is harder wearing but wasn't sure.

As always, any help is much appreciated.

Brittas

 

[misterhelpful]

Water based is now pretty hard-wearing but oil based is still stronger and will also give you a much smoother finish.

The only reason I would choose water-based is because it doesn't discolour as much - if you are planning to use white.

 

[brittas2009]

Thanks Misterhelpful for such a speedy response. Given what you've said, unless there are any other real disadvantages, I think I'll take the oil option.

I guess the best way to achieve that flat smooth finish is to use a natural bristle brush ?... any other recommendations?

 

[TheDec]

The reality here is that the water borne Acrylics are now surpassing their oil based counterparts regarding both longevetiy and binding powers.

Seeing as you have sanded back to bear wood, the need for either a shellac based primer such as Bin, or some sort of stain block paint will be needed in order to counteract resinous bleed. Yet that primer although well up to the job would'nt have been my choice.

Dec

 

[TheDec]

Brittas,

If you choose the oil route and it your intention to paint it white it will start to discolour and yellow within a few weeks, yet if this is your choice it should be applied with a quality china bristle brush such as Hamilton.

However if you have a change of heart and turn the Acrylic route then a superb finish can be obtained from a synthetic bristle brush such as Purdy.

Dec

 

[misterhelpful]

Agree with Dec on the choices of brush for each type of paint - just don't forget the discolouring point we've both mentioned.

 

[TheDec]

Brittas,

Take a glance at Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell and see what you think of the coating, if you have not purchased the Bin then leave it well alone and I will be be able to offer you a far cheaper alternative.

There is a lot to be said with regard to the lowering of the VOC levels in all paints and protective coatings and also more to reject.

Dec

 

[brittas2009]

Dec.
Thanks for the Info. Unfortunately I have already purchased the bin for this job, however I have more to do after this, so am interested In learning more about the options.

As you will have gathered, I'm just a diy'er but am keen to get as good as finish as possible. I'll take a look at the dulux products. If I go down that route what would you use to prime? The wood is pine again so was concerned about bleeding, hence went for the bin. Is it good enough just to use a standard knot sealer?

Thanks for the advice

Brittas

 

[TheDec]

brittas,

all stain block paints will protect from resinous bleed, yet most including Bin are rather expensive, one of the most underated products for stopping resinous bleed is Aluminium Primer it is in no way expensive and far easier to apply than Bin.

This product will tend to offer a greyish/blue tinge but is easily covered with an undercoat.

Dec

 

[misterhelpful]

one of the most underated products for stopping resinous bleed is Aluminium Primer it is in no way expensive

Good call. It is no longer used as much as it could be, especially on hardwoods.
It seems the Zinsser bandwagon is being jumped on a lot more nowadays - including by myself. They are good products though!

 

[TheDec]

Thank you Mr H,

And an expensive bandwagon at that, if I had a few sheets of plywood to seal allowing longevity I know what I would choose.

Dec

 

[JohnD]

I like the Aluminium Wood primer as well. Seems very durable used outdoors too, and adheres very well.

 

[brittas2009]

Hi all

Just another quick question .... As mentioned earlier, I've already got the BIN so will use it this time. I have purchased the top coat and have gone for water based acrylic, along with a nice quality synthetic brush.

Just wondering about undercoat... I already have a tin of oil based undercoat from doing something else. Can I use that or should I purchase a water based acrylic one?

Thanks again

Brittas

 

[TheDec]

So you have decided on the Acrylic route and purchased a synthetic brush, Acrylic paints don't have the covering power of their oil based counterparts yet I believe them to be the the new age of paint systems.

With regard to your undercoat, on the provision that it has not been stored for a long period of time and or has been in anyway subject to damage by frost, I can't see any reason why you should not use it.

Acrylic paints have often been described has having a grainy texture, yet I believe that the application method of such paints can eliminate this, A colleague of mine on this forum of whom I might add consider to be a first class tradesman dislikes these paints yet as said I believe them to the systems of the future.

If I were you I would practice on a pre- painted surface before you start on your cabinets, doing so will allow you to get familier with both brush and roller.

If you require further advice concerning both application and preparation please don't hesitate to ask, success on your part is my prime concern and I will be only to willing try and guide you toward it.

The very best of luck to you

Dec

 

[TheDec]

Sorry that should read brush and paint.

Dec