Old bath taps - want to change but confused!

[carled]

Hello all,

Getting fed up with replacing washers every few months so decided to change bath taps. They're the house's original taps from when it was built in 1948.

Now I'm probably going to get my terminology wrong here, but bear with me and I'll describe what is there. The hot tap is connected to a thicker pipe than the cold tap. The hot pipe is 22mm wide and the cold pipe is 17mm wide - I used an adjustable wrench until it just allowed the wrench to move around then measured the gap - so I know these are accurate measurements.

Projecting out from the base of the taps are "tails" that are threaded. These threaded tails are 1" in diameter on both taps, which is where the problems start as, these days, it all seems to be 3/4" fittings. The threaded tails are about an inch and a half long from what I can see (there's a big nut holding the tap onto the bath, then there is an inch and a half of threaded "tail" before it disappears into the connection to the pipe itself.)

I'd quite like to get a mixer tap with a shower attachment, but the one I've seen that I want is 3/4" tails on the taps, not the 1" I have - so what do I need to do to get this fitted, or am I stuffed here?

We also have a combi boiler - the hot flow is slowwwwwww.... 15 minutes to fill the bath. We were told by the plumber fitting it that this was because of the width of the pipe going to the hot tap - is he talking baloney or could that be reducing the flow?

Cheers for any help!

 

[ChrisR]

Guess what the outside diameter of a 3/4" pipe is?

One inch.

You don't say whether the pipes are copper or iron. Your 17mm could be 1/2" if it's iron, which is possible if it's on the mains. Your 22mm is either 22mm copper or much more likely 3/4" copper.

Those are all easy to deal with for a plumber, often going back to the last joint on iron pipes, to adapt to copper.

Your combi is probably not producing much HW - try measuring the flow at the kitchen sink at the same temp - (More flow would be less hot).
If the flow is less at the bath tap then yes the pipe is making a difference.

If you use a tap reseater to cut the seat flat your old taps will limp on a bit longer!

 

[carled]

Er... Remember, I'm no expert here! The 22mm "hot water" pipe is definitely copper. The 17mm pipe... no idea. It's seems darker than the copper pipes, but I'm not sure if that's because it's dirty or a different metal.

The problem seems to be the diameter of the threaded base of the tap. I was at the diy store today and the bath taps measured 3/4" across their threaded bases, whereas my taps are an inch across. Therefore if I was to replace my taps with the 3/4" ones, they wouldn't fit onto/into the existing nut.

Could I replace the nut on the 22mm and 17mm pipes somehow, or is it all an integral part of the fitting?

If it's a huge job, then I'll forget it. If it's something I could sort, then I would just appreciate a few hints & tips!

 

[doitall]

I think your in trouble already

Job is an easy one for a skilled plumber, and your biggest problem will be the new taps, for starters the tails will be shorter than the existing so both pipes will need extending

 

[ChrisR]

Well, you need to recognise what the bits are so you can find what will fit. You certainly will not just be able to buy a mixer which replaces the taps without doing some altering. The Dark pipe could be iron or lead. If the cold pipe is on the mains, which soounds likely, and the hot the tank, also likely, a mixer won't work be a good idea anyway!

 

[carled]

don't have a tank - combi boiler, remember!

Is it a case of scratching the outside of the cold pipe to see what colour it comes up? Or is there a more scientific way of sorting this out?

 

[doitall]

could try that, copper and lead will be obvious, whereas galv should be.

on very big bath tubs the taps could have been 1" and still available but very expensive, best bet would be to remove the old bath, convert the pipes to copper and re-connect using flexible tails

 

[brumylad]

try a magnet on it.

try cleaning with wire wool or wire brush.

measure the distance between, centre - centre of your existing tap tails and the distance between the new mixer tap tails (again centre - centre). If they are different the job will involve bending and soldering copper pipe.

So u need: a working mains stop tap, pipe bender, flux, lead free solder, blow torch, gogles, wire wool, pipe cutter, yorkshire fittings, lenghs of 22 and 15 pipe, service valves, and if you wana play safe, earth clamps & 6mm earth wire.

 

[ChrisR]

Some Lime Lite to clean round the old taps, a fire extinguisher, and £850 of electrical test gear to make sure it's safe. And fittings to adapt from whatever the heck you've got, ptfe tape, a couple of different basin spanners, box spanners cos the old threads will be full of hardened goo, grips etc. And you gotta be able to work with the same arm you're supporting yourself on. And a safe lead light. It's really EASY, this plumbing lark, innit

 

[carled]

Ah. Anyone know any good plumbers around Leicester?

 

[ChrisR]

Oooooooooooooshshshshshhhhhhhhhhhhh
HHHHHHHHHmmmmmmmmmmmm nah
You'll have to move, mate, sorry.