old Wood frames new glass as old condensed

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Hi,

please advise :)

My old wooden frames are still ok but now I have several glass panes bust and now condensed so I need new glass for these frames, looking at the fittings with the wood trimmings on the outside which are nailed down, it looks easy to remove these trimmings all around the frame that keeps the glass in place (whats name for these trimmings?). Anyway, lloks like the glass has been glued all aroung no sign of putty,

question - can I remove the glass take to glass trade and get new and fit...first remove out trims then cut around glass with stanley to loosen the glue (is this glue or silicone or other sealant?) and then clean, re-seal and fit new window then refit trims???

many thanks for advice...
 
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trimmings are wooden beads.

In theory yes , what you are saying is possible , but I suggest you remove the beads , measure the units , then order fresh units before removing the original. We do a lot of this type of work , and it is very easy to be over enthusastic and break the original sealed unit, which if you have no new one to go in, can be a pain.
It is possible that it is just silicione holding them in, not ideal ob its on , and should have really had a butyl strip as well ( Hodgsons Flexistrip , for example , affectionately known as putty on a roll) , it is a lso very possible it is glue from a glue gun , as I have seen units put in with that too...
 
Beads got it!

It doesnt matter if I break the glass unit on way out as its getting scrapped and a new piece going in, do you mean the wood frame as in sealed unit or glass? the old glass has busted, if I take beads off do I measure edge to edge up/down and across on the old glass exactly? yeah looks like glue gun then new glass on top then refit beads, am I better with Flexistrip than glue gun?

1. Remove beads
2. Measure glass vertical and horizontal
3. Order new
4. Remove old glass and fit new (glue gun fixing or Flexistrip ?)
5. Reseat beads (beads are on outside, not good security)

If I was not selling house I would fit PVC.

These glass sealed units always go in end then? one I had done 6 years ago starting to go too
thanks
 
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Yes, remove beads measure height width and depth too (if possible )..I'd refit with flexistrip , you cant get them out without going insideand forcing the out that way , acts as a security tape and makes more secure. External beads on wood are the norm
And yes glass units dont last forever, should get 10-15 years on average depending on howthey are fitted and whether they are south facing or not ( as they get all the weather and usually go first )
 
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great, nearly there just a few points if you could please?

1. does it matter what thickness tape I get?
2. stick the tape on first facing outside in wood frame then push glass into it? or stick tape around glass first then insert?
3. will I still need Silfix sealant to finish off? or will the flexistrip give a finished look?
4. is it easy enough, should imagine I will save a lot of fixing charges doing myself?
5. is flexistrip for residential as well as business windows (load bearing)? is it overkill for houses

Also looked at this sealant as oppose to flexistrip?
Silfix U9 - Brown

thanks :)
 
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Perfectly usuable residential, we use it all the time. Flexistrip on wood overhanging slightly , press glass to it , if beads fit flush all the way round you should really fill all void with low modulus clear silicone and then flexistrip to glass where beads fix to and then pin beads on..make sure you have prssed the sealed unit and beads on to the flexistrip. Any flexistrip that is visible once completed can be cut off with a sharp stanley knife leaving a nice finished edge.
You can use which ever thickness you wish,we tend to use 1.5mm x 12mmby 19 mtr rolls
 
Great Ronnie, let it overhang slightly in frame as it can be cut after then fit glass and fit more tape outside of window for beads to stick, thought it was inside only? it states here do one side glass turn over then do other?
http://www.hodgsonsealants.com/content/corporate/blog/view/how-do-i-apply-flexistrip

Or are you saying fit first tape inside frame for easier and then push window into it?
before fitting beads onto tape make sure all voids cracks (any gaps on ouside of frame around sealed unti)...are sealed with low modulus clear silicone? can this be brown if frames are brown?

Think Im ready after this one
cheers mate :)
 
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Its easier to put it on frame first ...trust me lol!

Yes brown silicone is fine providing it is low modulus
 
only thing Im wondering about is using flexistrip on outside and sticking beads? more secure but when need to replace unit again it would mean new beads?
 
no , once you've got the beads off the flexistrip scrapes off with a scraper. Its only more secure as you have to physically lever the glass out from inside the building , but once the seal starts to break , it comes off quite easily. You'd only need new beads if you break one or they rot away!
 
I did your project a few years ago, when some of our DG panes started to fog. When I got the new panes, I took the old ones out and some did crack even with lots of care. I also went for thicker panes with better insulation properties that still allowed me to refit the old wooden beads which are now slightly protruding the frames, but this actually looks better. The new units I sealed into the existing wooden frame with clear silicon. I then attached the beading onto the same silicon and sealed the units in with brown silicon inside and outside to stop any water running into the frames. Still fine after 13 years.
 
Thanks for info mate the glass is cheap enough the old ones are 2 cm depth and thought of going a bit more or is that adequate?, Some of the beads are rotten so will BMW for new ones. I have a small rot about 4 inch on one of the bottom frames so I will use wood filler to fix and repaint over. So you used clear silicone to stick units and beads and finished off with brown sealant around the glass edges? I noticed a few mill gap around the units inside the frame assuming this is normal to allow unit to breathe, not sure though if I should fit new unit then fill that void all round new u it's with silicone? I think that's what you meant Ronnie? To fill and gap between unit and frame? This has not been case as I can see no filler around the unit few mm inside frame all-round.
 
I had some rot at the bottom of a panel and I guess it was caused by water running in between the glass and frame and just sitting there. Clear the rot out and fill the void with wood filler. I used silicon to stick and also seal the glass in because I had some water creeping in onto the inside under an old pane. Never happened since.
 
Sounds exact same as me then what you had, the old units sit directly on top of bottom frame so once new unit in will run silicone along bottom before beads go on, not sure whether to fill in gaps all way around new unit too as u it's slightly smaller than frame or maybe leave that to allow air?
Someone mentioned to lift the new unit up a few mm from the bottom frame in case water gets in but surely that's bad as t could move and water could fill the gap even worse than allowing u it to sit firmly on bottom frame.
Thanks
 
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