Is it possible that an open ring, originating at the washing machine isolator, could cause an F17 door lock error on a Hotpoint w/m?
The last gas/electrical inspection conducted by my social housing landlord, concluded with the engineer reporting an open continuity test on the kitchen r/m, which he remedied by replacing the 32A breaker with a 20A stating it will be fine as two radial circuits wherever the break may be (he was not going to test every outlet).
Last w/e while waiting for a wash cycle to complete, the w/m wouldn't perform the couple of alternating drum rotations at the end before finally releasing the door lock. Eventually it gave up and the F12 error displayed with the d/l symbol flashing and the d/l chattering and making an awful crackling/arcing noise. I hit the power button to turn it off and let it rest a while, but as soon as I turned it back on, the exact same thing happened. Pressed and held the p/b to cancel the cycle, and switched off at the isolator.
Even longer story short, got rid of the not so old but out of warranty Hotpoint for a Beko, plumbed it in and levelled it, switched on the isolator and snap, crackle, pop - it turns out that the isolator is the culprit. Yes, my hearing is not what it used to be.
Have to wait till tomorrow for the landlord's office to open to see if I can get recompense for a situation that may not have occurred if they'd fixed the ring main in the first place.
(Ed.)
The last gas/electrical inspection conducted by my social housing landlord, concluded with the engineer reporting an open continuity test on the kitchen r/m, which he remedied by replacing the 32A breaker with a 20A stating it will be fine as two radial circuits wherever the break may be (he was not going to test every outlet).
Last w/e while waiting for a wash cycle to complete, the w/m wouldn't perform the couple of alternating drum rotations at the end before finally releasing the door lock. Eventually it gave up and the F12 error displayed with the d/l symbol flashing and the d/l chattering and making an awful crackling/arcing noise. I hit the power button to turn it off and let it rest a while, but as soon as I turned it back on, the exact same thing happened. Pressed and held the p/b to cancel the cycle, and switched off at the isolator.
Even longer story short, got rid of the not so old but out of warranty Hotpoint for a Beko, plumbed it in and levelled it, switched on the isolator and snap, crackle, pop - it turns out that the isolator is the culprit. Yes, my hearing is not what it used to be.
Have to wait till tomorrow for the landlord's office to open to see if I can get recompense for a situation that may not have occurred if they'd fixed the ring main in the first place.
(Ed.)
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