Order of work for plasterer.

[trialscot]

Hi,
I've almost finished strapping and sheeting in an extension.
I've left the socket cables behind and the light fitting wires pulled through as the sparky asked for.
I intend to get the rooms bonded and skimmed, does the sparky have to fit the back boxes now or after the plasterer is finished?.
Also, do I fit the floor/wall unit carcases in the kitchen before or after plastering?. Presumably the plasterer would prefer a straight run at it all?.

 

[Alastairreid]

If its the backboxes for use on drywall they can be fitted after plastering is complete, metal boxes before.

the holes for drywall boxes are easier cut out before plastering though.

why are you bonding the sheets?

Best to get all the plastering done before installing units.

 

[Richard C]

Get all the back boxes fitted with the cable coiled inside before plastering or you risk damaging the plaster. Get the walls fully plastered before fitting the kitchen carcases, your spread will have a fit if you ask him to plaster around them; personally I would walk away!

You say you’ve “sheeted it out” so I assume you have plaster board? which should be Moisture Resistant in a kitchen! Are you tiling onto PB? If so no need to plaster but MR board need priming before skimming any untilled areas. What do you mean by getting it “bonded”?

What type of walls do you have block or stud?

 

[joe-90]

personally I would walk away!

Have you seen that TV show 'Grumpy Old Men'? You'd love it.

 

[Richard C]

personally I would walk away!

Have you seen that TV show 'Grumpy Old Men'? You'd love it.

Yep & I can afford to be choosy

 

[trialscot]

What do you mean by getting it “bonded”?

Sorry, sensory overload after listening to endless plasterers jargon the last couple of days!. Just skimming for the plasterboards in the extension.
I'll phone the electrician when the New Year "festivities" are over, the metal back boxes are all in and wire coiled in them in the original brick part of the house.

Had four advertised "plasterers" to look at the work in the ground floor of the house - original part has a lot back to bare brick where most of the plaster was taken off as it was blown. Also several doors/windows filled up with concrete blocks.
No. 1 said dot and dab bare walls, patch the other bits.
No.2 said strap with battens all over, insulate and plasterboard.
No. 3 said actually he only did tape and fill as he was really just a decorator.
No.4 said traditional plaster (bond?) and skim original part of the house, skim the plasterboards in the extension.

Going with No4 as he was the only one who seems to know exactly what he's doing and have since had some very good reports about him.
Got to get door frames and a few other jobs done then he'll price the job.

Very many thanks for all the replies, much food for thought as usual.

 

[Richard C]

Options;

1. The cheap & cheerful, easy option but D&D/skim is not as good or as hardwearing as a conventional base coat & skim; your house, your choice.

2. Why does he think battening & insulation is necessary, have you got solid external brick walls? Could make a difference to your final choice!

3. Tape & fill is strictly DIY & the pits IMO; I wouldn’t bother with it at all but at least he was honest.

4. Sounds like your man but no guarantees & it won’t be the cheap option. He’s almost certainly referring to Bonding Plaster but it’s not a conventional choice for a base coat on medium/high suction backgrounds. I do use it often for patching & remedial work on walls in poor condition but on complete walls, I’d use a sand/cement render base every time.

You seem to have some time on your hands so I’d ask to go & see some of his work if you can; if he’s any good he won’t mind at all.

 

[trialscot]

Why does he think battening & insulation is necessary, have you got solid external brick walls?

Nope, cavity brick, bone dry as I spent a lot of time cleaning out the cavities, some parts of which were filled up to 12" above DPC. I suspect this guy is basically a joiner who can do some skimming, as well as being a bit of a chancer.

I've been working on this renovation/extension project for our retirement for some time now and never fail to be impressed by the BS that some guys stand and tell me!. I always put on the simpleton act for them but I don't normally get anyone to look at jobs until I have a fair idea of what the correct answer/procedure is.

To have been able to do that, I owe you guys on DIYnot an enormous debt of gratitude. Even if an answer to a query on here is not exactly what I am looking for, it always provides food for thought.
I would never have been able to progress this project without your help, thanks a million.

PS My son reminds me that plasterer 4's first coat is indeed sand/cement render on the bare bricks.

 

[joe-90]

Sand/cement is by far the coldest option and your heating bills will certainly add up to a few bob over the years. It IS the best mechanical option but insulation is pretty important these days.