Outdoor chair repair

[cully]

Sanding an outdoor rocking chair ready for this years varnishing the chair fell off the worktop and broke off part of the back (see pix as was and as is) The wood is sapele. initial thought is to plane / router the two edges square then glue but that would loose height causing a step at the point of repair, is there any alternatives? Another question I have is what causes the black marks seen on the wood, is it UV sun damage or have I burnt it when making it? I didn't notice it at the first varnishing. Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

Personally I’d consider just glueing the join with PVA, or maybe introducing a couple of dowels for extra strength. Remove any raggy bits from the inside of the break bit leave the outer edges alone.....its a nice bit of kit!
John

 

[JohnD]

PVA is water soluble and will soften when damp.

Outdoors I use the weather-resistant EVO wood glue in the blue (not green) bottle.

The black marks are where water has got in and you have a fungal stain.

 

[cully]

Thanks for the replies,
I have the "blue"PVA I also have some two part epoxy resin left (used that for gluing the joints) which would you use?
I don't think I will dowel it as the break is in an area on the chair that should not get much force.
Re; water ingress and fungal stain how do you remove this? I tried to sand them out and created more discoloration that was initially there.

 

[foxhole]

Most grab a chair by the rear , top, exactly where it’s broken, needs reinforcement.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Blue PVA (D3) isn't great for fully exposed exterior use, you need a fully waterproof glue (D4) but NOT one of those foaming PU (polyurethane) monstrosities. Google "Everbuild D4 PVA" and it should come up with a suitable glue (sold in Toolstation, but not Screwd-Up). I'm with Burnerman on the need to add dowels for extra support - just make sure that they are a durable hardwood and NOT beech which will soon start to rot in damp conditions (Appleby Turnings can help)

 

[cully]

Thanks for all the replies, to summarize I will hardwood dowel (3 X 12mm) and D4 PVA Everbuild glue from toolstation.
The two halves sit tight together (dry run) so after I glue it possible to reduce the line of the break that is noticable?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Don't use excessive glue such that you have massive amounts of squeeze-out. Clamp it up whilst the glue sets. Wipe any squeeze out off with a dampened cloth as soon as the clamps have been tightened. That should reduce the glue line.

 

[cully]

Thanks

 

[Ryler]

foaming PU (polyurethane) monstrosities

We had some of that recently. Never seen it before.
One of the guys poured out half a gallon and spread it across a large trusse.
It turned to foam in a few minutes and we had to scrape the lot off.

 

[big-all]

general comments
do a dry clamp first to test for fit
if the face is flat from top to bottom a couple off vertical batons front and back clamped to hold the two halves level with paper in the glue area between batons and work but keep the paper small so you can see the mating surfaces
use clamping blocks/batons to prevent the bar clamp damaging the work
because the top is curved you may have trouble sitting the bar clamp block on the top if so during the dry clamp come back and ask as we all have our little tips

 

[conny]

Because of the curved top you could put a small block on the top of the curve and a small one in between the centre uprights and use a simple windlass to clamp that section.

 

[SpecialK]

Glue it. Then fix two batons up the back for added strength. If you shape them and use a similar material it should look OK?