Outdoor LED lights

[donetello]

Hi all
Currently have just one 10 watt LED floodlight mounted on side wall which is switched by a standalone PIR mounted about 3.5-4 mtrs towards the house front.

Cable is 1.0mm from 6amp lighting circuit breaker then through a 5amp switched fused spur,out through wall approx 2mtr to a ip65 junction box,4 core 1.0mm to PIR 4mts max,then tail from light into said box 0.5mtr.

Looking to run another 1.0mm cable from the junction box to the rear of the house around 6mts max,to run another 10 watt PIR LED.
Would this be ok ?.Thanks in advance.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes. Assuming you are planning to clip the cable to the wall (ie not buried) you'll need 3 core cable suitable for use outside.

Something like this will be fine
Time Tough Flexible Cable 3183TRS 3-Core 0.75mm² x 25m Black

 

[donetello]

Yes. Assuming you are planning to clip the cable to the wall (ie not buried) you'll need 3 core cable suitable for use outside.

Something like this will be fine
Time Tough Flexible Cable 3183TRS 3-Core 0.75mm² x 25m Black

Many thanks for taking the time to answer.someone said the 1.0mm was too small even for the one PIR and light already on it.
Yes the cable will just run from the junction box clipped to the brickwork,round corner and into 10 watt PIR light approx 6 mtr run max.

 

[Taylortwocities]

"Someone" should be ignored then.

The 5A SFU will limit the current to 5amps. There will be no appreciable volt drop over 6metres for 10 watt load.

 

[donetello]

"Someone" should be ignored then.

The 5A SFU will limit the current to 5amps. There will be no appreciable volt drop over 6metres for 10 watt load.

Thank you
My thoughts exactly,from memory 1.0mm will carry around 14amps in clipped free air,not 100% sure but 10 watts is around 0.5 amps.
Told him the light was only set to come on for around 30 seconds.
He said it should be 1.5mm minimum,looking at the PIR I doubt 1.5mm 4 core would have gone through the small slot in the plastic back.

 

[JohnW2]

My thoughts exactly,from memory 1.0mm will carry around 14amps in clipped free air,not 100% sure but 10 watts is around 0.5 amps.

Actually around 0.04 amps, not 0.5 amps! (i.e. totally negligible).

Told him the light was only set to come on for around 30 seconds. ... He said it should be 1.5mm minimum, ...

As has been said, this person should be ignored.

Kind Regards, John

 

[donetello]

My thoughts exactly,from memory 1.0mm will carry around 14amps in clipped free air,not 100% sure but 10 watts is around 0.5 amps.

Actually around 0.04 amps, not 0.5 amps! (i.e. totally negligible).

Told him the light was only set to come on for around 30 seconds. ... He said it should be 1.5mm minimum, ...

As has been said, this person should be ignored.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks John

 

[Donetello1561]

right have run the cable to a second light with PIR round the back.After working ok for a day the one from the standalone PIR is flashing all the time and the one with the built in PIR is on constantly.The 10watt wired to the standalone PIR was fine up until I added the second light.

 

[winston1]

FCUs are not used or required on lighting circuits which are adequately protected by a 6 amp MCB. Who put it in? Was it that "someone".

 

[RF Lighting]

It's always a great idea to have outside lights, which are prone to water ingress fed via a DP isolator, and having a 3A fuse protecting your lights is hardly a bad thing.

 

[winston1]

It's always a great idea to have outside lights, which are prone to water ingress fed via a DP isolator, and having a 3A fuse protecting your lights is hardly a bad thing.

That is not what he has got. He has a 5 amp fuse which will be slower to blow that the 6 amp MCB will be to trip.
As I said FCUs are not used or required on lighting circuits which are adequately protected.

 

[333rocky333]

the one from the standalone PIR is flashing all the time and the one with the built in PIR is on constantly.

As I said FCUs are not used or required on lighting circuits

Maybe, but at least he can turn it off to stop the damn thing flashing all night, or when it finally dies and starts tripping out the house electrics.

Also a lot of time a switch or FCU is actually recomended, to operate the built in over-ride facility

 

[ericmark]

It's always a great idea to have outside lights, which are prone to water ingress fed via a DP isolator, and having a 3A fuse protecting your lights is hardly a bad thing.

That is not what he has got. He has a 5 amp fuse which will be slower to blow that the 6 amp MCB will be to trip.
As I said FCUs are not used or required on lighting circuits which are adequately protected.

I would say a switched FCU is just as good as a double pole switch to isolate. And one can fit 1A fuse if you like both 5 and 1 amp are non preferred sizes so as easy to fit 1A as a 5A. And as to if a 3A fuse will rupture before or after a 6A MCB depends on how much over current, so the example given of over current due to water, then the 3A would rupture before a 6A MCB. The FCU also has the ability to be locked off so making it apparent to all it is intended to be off rather than accidentally being switched off. Even a cable tie is enough to show it should not be switched on.

 

[Donetello1561]

Thanks fellas,any ideas on why the one on the standalone PIR has started flashing and the other on all the time.As said they were ok at first,the standalone has been working fine on its own for over a week,

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks fellas,any ideas on why the one on the standalone PIR has started flashing and the other on all the time.As said they were ok at first,the standalone has been working fine on its own for over a week,

When outdoor electrical things start behaving wrongly, differently or not at all, it's most commonly due to their having filled up with water. Did you have any heavy rain in the period prior to these changes in behaviour?

Kind Regards, John