Outdoor Socket Installation - A few questions

[Damian30]

Hi,

I am looking to install an outdoor Masterseal (IP66) socket and outdoor light. I'm going to get a spark to connect them up to be on the safe side but want to do the prep by drilling and installing the cable, etc.

I have a few (basic) questions which I'd be grateful if anyone has any views on:

1. Is there a recommended standard height from ground level for installing the external plug socket?

2. I may also need to install an outside tap in the same wall as the external socket, are there any rules about proximity and location in relation to each other?

3. The cable into the back of the outdoor socket (and light) will not be exposed to direct sunlight but will be exposed to a range of temperatures. What would be the best cable to use - arctic, FP200, H05RN, etc?

4. The drill hole through the cavity will depend upon the outside diameter of the cable used but is there a rule of thumb for the size of the hole in relation to the cable diameter (e.g. 50% bigger, etc). I'm guessing there is no risk of heat build in this situation so the hole should just be sized as necessary?

Sorry if these questions are a little naive but is be very grateful of any views which are much appreciated as ever.

Many thanks,

Damian

 

[Damian30]

Hi,

Does anyone have any views on sny my previous questions above?

Many thanks,

Damian

 

[EFLImpudence]

1. Is there a recommended standard height from ground level for installing the external plug socket?

No. Common sense so that it won't be susceptible to damage.

2. I may also need to install an outside tap in the same wall as the external socket, are there any rules about proximity and location in relation to each other?

Common sense again.

3. The cable into the back of the outdoor socket (and light) will not be exposed to direct sunlight but will be exposed to a range of temperatures. What would be the best cable to use - arctic, FP200, H05RN, etc?

Hituf will do for the light. T+E for the socket.

4. The drill hole through the cavity will depend upon the outside diameter of the cable used but is there a rule of thumb for the size of the hole in relation to the cable diameter (e.g. 50% bigger, etc). I'm guessing there is no risk of heat build in this situation so the hole should just be sized as necessary?

Just large enough to install without damage will suffice.

Both of these jobs (exterior power and lights) are notifiable by law and as such you really should discuss it with the electrician who will have to state that he designed, installed and tested the circuits.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1. Is there a recommended standard height from ground level for installing the external plug socket?

Not a recommended height, but think practically and logically.
You do not want to damage appliance flex or plug due to stress or that it should cause a trip hazard, you do not want to have the outlet and it's cabling in a location that would be easily damaged mechanically and also take in to consideration if the area floods.

2. I may also need to install an outside tap in the same wall as the external socket, are there any rules about proximity and location in relation to each other?

the requirement would come under external influences and the two should be separated by a sensible distance again no distance within the regulation is given but I would consider no less than 300mm.

3. The cable into the back of the outdoor socket (and light) will not be exposed to direct sunlight but will be exposed to a range of temperatures. What would be the best cable to use - arctic, FP200, H05RN, etc?

SWA or if a short distance in conduit.

4. The drill hole through the cavity will depend upon the outside diameter of the cable used but is there a rule of thumb for the size of the hole in relation to the cable diameter (e.g. 50% bigger, etc). I'm guessing there is no risk of heat build in this situation so the hole should just be sized as necessary?

Drill the hole so the cable can be easily pulled through, without causing damage to outside sheath of cable, the whole can always be resealed, I have often drilled so 20mm conduit inserted in hole and cable/cables can then be pulled through then either continued run in conduit or cut even to wall and sealed.
When drilling, slight downward angle towards outside, will help prevent water tracking back in to property, also pilot hole first, then drill externally inwards, stopping a re short distance after breaking in tothe second leaf of cavity, then internally outwards with desired drill size, until hole is continuously the same bore and not breaking in to external face of wall. This will help prevent the cracking or breaking of external brick, stone, render etc.....
If you damage any internal plaster work this is much easier to repair, than external fabric.
Also plan the location you are drilling and make sure no other services are going to be damaged whilst drilling. Such as electrics, water, gas etc...

 

[Damian30]

All,

Thanks for some very useful information.

Just a couple of points of clarification. The cable to the outside light and the PIR sensor will go straight into the back of each fitting. Hence, no cable will be visible and in direct sunlight. Do I still really need Hi Tuff type cable or just something that can handle the temperature extremes?

The socket will be going on a conservatory dwarf wall where I have access to the cavity and the cable can then be run to an internal socket on the main ring. Do you think it is better to keep the external socket on the ring or just spur. I'll fit the outdoor socket at 450mm and then it is well away from any foot traffic, etc.

I will get some quotes for the work. Whilst it would be interesting to do, it needs to be designed properly and I want to ensure the socket ring protected by the RCD at the CU (2001 design) is fully working as it should. You never know what testing went on when it was installed.

Thanks again,

Damian

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The cable to the outside light and the PIR sensor will go straight into the back of each fitting. Hence, no cable will be visible and in direct sunlight. Do I still really need Hi Tuff type cable or just something that can handle the temperature extremes?
If the cables are going directly in to fittings and are not routed externally, you will find the standard T&E will do the job, the sheath of cable will need to enter the fitting and the insulation of the cores may need heat resistant sleeves within the light fitting.

The socket will be going on a conservatory dwarf wall where I have access to the cavity and the cable can then be run to an internal socket on the main ring. Do you think it is better to keep the external socket on the ring or just spur. I'll fit the outdoor socket at 450mm and then it is well away from any foot traffic, etc.

I would take a FCU (fused connection unit) from the RFC (ring final circuit) to protect the external socket. Using a double pole FCU would allow you to isolate the external socket from the RFC if it became faulty, therefore avoiding loss of power to the RFC during a faulty and remedial work.
Also this socket will require RCD protection if not already on the circuit, so if you do not have existing RCD protection a FCU with RCD would be advised.

I will get some quotes for the work. Whilst it would be interesting to do, it needs to be designed properly and I want to ensure the socket ring protected by the RCD at the CU (2001 design) is fully working as it should. You never know what testing went on when it was installed.

I refer to the answer given previouslly, regarding outside socket, but as from 2008 it was a general requirement that any newly installed sockets be RCD protected.
and it is also advised that you do quarterly tests on the RCD test button and have the existing system inspected and tested at recomended intervals, this would be for a newish system about 10 years but that would decrease with the age and condition of the existing system. I normally recommend 5 years on existing systems that have given satisfactory results.