Outside light

[ktp]

Hello everyone, this is my first post here. You seem like a friendly bunch and I'm hoping someone can help. I have seen a question similar to the one I am going to ask but since I've joined this forum I can't seem to access it, I don't know why???

I am going to put a light in my shed in the garden. The little that I know about it comes from books! My plan is to spur off a socket in the house. I know how to identify if the socket already has or is a spur.
I know (or think I know) that I then have to have a fused connection unit leading to a junction box which will take cable to the light switch and also to the light itself?
I've been looking around and pricing stuff up and I have seen switched fused connection units. Can these be used instead of the junction box and light switch or is this just be a way of turning off the power from the spurred socket to the shed?

Many thanks
ktp

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you use a switched FCU it has exactly the same terminals etc as a non-switched one, so if you need a JB with an unswitched one you'll still need a JB with a switched one.

It can remove the need for a light switch in the shed, but then you'll have to go back to the house to turn it on when needed. I guess it depends what you think you're more likely to do - go out there and forget to turn it on, or come back indoors and forget to turn it off.

How far is it to the shed, and what sort of cable, running where, do you plan to use?

 

[ktp]

First of all so you know what sort of DIYer I am, if I had gone to B&Q and the socket had been pink, it would have been in my basket quicker than a rat up a drain pipe.
This is just so you know what you're dealing with! LOL! I am not going to use armoured cable, I was going to use ordinary cable with conduit going along the outside wall, buried under some paving slabs then into my shed. The shed is at the very most 25 feet away.
Why would I still need the junction box? I thought a junction box just enabled you to send cable to the light switch from one opening and to the light fitting from another? If I used a switched FCU (I can use abbreviations too!) instead of the light switch, where in the run of cable from the socket I'm spurring from, would the junction box go? I'm a bit confused about that sorry?
I am very grateful for your help. I am determined to learn how to do stuff and not have to pay daft amounts of money for things that I can safely to do myself!!

Thanks again!
ktp

 

[Steve]

Right, you cant run the cable in plastic conduit under paving (occasionally such thigns are tolerated where it is used to supply floor standing luminaires).

You must use armoured cable, if something comes at a "silly price" its normally for a reason.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/Armoured_SWA/index.html

TLC is an online electrical wholesaler, deliver next day, and not bad prices.

 

[breezer]

not to mention part P

 

[ktp]

Steve

Don't know what floor standing luminaires are but I think I want some!!!
That aside. I thought that with armoured cable you had to have a junction box to enable you to join it to the 'ordinary' cable. I've looked in all the DIY stores, B&Q, Do It All, Focus, Wicks and I can't find any. I've looked at the armoured cable and it can't go directly into a fitting can it? But I'm stumped about finding whatever you have to use to join it to 'ordinary' stuff?
When I said about daft money I don't mean I want to do it on the cheap but the quotes I had went from £193 upwards. Maybe I'm wrong but I thought it was a bit steep for this job? That's why I thought I might have a go myself.

Regards
ktp

 

[breezer]

floor standing luminaires are lights that are fixed to the floor (lamp posts, only shorter)

you are looking for the wrong junction box, which is why you cant find one.

you would be better off with one of them armadillo kits

 

[Steve]

Here is everything you'll need to install a length of armoured cable. (click the image to make it bigger) also, appropriate glands for the "normal" cable where it exits the metal boxes.

Untitled

• Steve
• 19 Apr 2008
• 1

And a floor standing luminaire:

 

[SparkyNinja]

If the switch you are planning on using in the shed will not accomodate the SWA then you will have to put in an extra 'joint' in the shed. If I was to do the work, I would terminate into a metal clad spur near to where the cable enters the shed. Then from there you can change the wiring system.

SWA is definatley needed for the cable run.

 

[streetlighter]

SWA will be better than PVC conduit depending on the run id used 2.5mm 3-core so theres a solid earth connection if you dont get the glands tight enough.
From the house end ou would spur off the ring main into a fused spur then id drill through the wall run twin and earth into an IP rated enclosure and gland the SWA off into this.
In the shed use a metal clad spur and you can take the SWA galnd into it.
This work is covered under part P of the building regs and will require inspection and testing.
It might be better to use a qualified Electrician who is part P registered posably cheaper too.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

First of all so you know what sort of DIYer I am, if I had gone to B&Q and the socket had been pink, it would have been in my basket quicker than a rat up a drain pipe.
This is just so you know what you're dealing with! LOL!

Are you really sure you should be attempting this job?

I am not going to use armoured cable, I was going to use ordinary cable with conduit going along the outside wall, buried under some paving slabs then into my shed.

See above - you are going to use armoured cable..

Why would I still need the junction box? I thought a junction box just enabled you to send cable to the light switch from one opening and to the light fitting from another? If I used a switched FCU (I can use abbreviations too!) instead of the light switch, where in the run of cable from the socket I'm spurring from, would the junction box go? I'm a bit confused about that sorry?

I (and I expect the others) thought you were talking about a JB to transition between the twin & earth used inside the house to the armoured used outside.

It seems you were in fact talking about one of these:

which are used on loop-in wiring circuits because the 4 terminals give you your L/N/E for the circuit cable plus a switched live return from the switch. But if you've just got a cable coming into the shed to go to a switch and a light, why on earth would you mess around creating a circuit like that? Why take the cable to the JB, and then to the switch, and then from the JB to the light?

 

[breezer]

I (and I expect the others) thought you were talking about a JB to transition between the twin & earth used inside the house to the armoured used outside.

 

[breezer]

I (and I expect the others) thought you were talking about a JB to transition between the twin & earth used inside the house to the armoured used outside.

sorry, ban-all-sheds, I didn't.

which is why i said

...........you are looking for the wrong junction box, which is why you cant find one.

you would be better off with one of them armadillo kits

i also suggested an armadilo kit (its not perfect but would you not agree it would be easier for ktp (the OP)

 

[ktp]

Are you really sure you should be attempting this job?


See above - you are going to use armoured cable..

But if you've just got a cable coming into the shed to go to a switch and a light, why on earth would you mess around creating a circuit like that? Why take the cable to the JB, and then to the switch, and then from the JB to the light?

First of all thanks for all this help, you lot are fab!
Steve that list is spot on just what I needed, I've printed it off to make my order, thank you so much.

Ban all sheds yes I'm sure I should be attempting this job. As I said I think (especially having now see the cost of materials) the various prices I was quoted were very high. The lowest would be labour costs of about £150. Nobody commented on that so I'm still not sure if my thinking is right or I am just a tight ar*e about paying it!!

So now having all this information I have another question - sorry! When I get the power cable into my shed, will I be able to split it with a junction box and run some of it through an FCU to the light and then run separate cable into a power socket for using electric tools?
If, as I think, it is possible, would I need a separate FCU for the cable that runs to the power socket?

To finish, I wouldn't attempt anything more difficult than this and yes I know I have to have this work checked out first by the local authority.
I might sound stupid but I'm not.........honest I'm not!

ktp

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You don't sound stupid, but you do sound as though you don't yet have anything like enough basic knowledge of circuit topologies, and what components to use when, where, and how, to be attempting the installation of an outbuilding supply on the basis of whatever questions happen to occur to you....

And as for labour costs - how does DIY + LABC notification fee compare to the cost of getting an electrician?