Outside Power

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I have a power socket fitted outside ( by builder) I want to build a shed on the side of the house, the question I want to ask is if I wanted power in the shed and also a cable running into the garden to power some lights, if I used arnoured cabling and tapped of the back of the outside socket to the the shed were I fed this cable into a consumer unit with 2 RCD breakers and then ran a cable into the back for the lights and the other cable for a socket in the shed, would I be doing it corrrectly or is there a better way to do it. I still want to be able to use the original socket to plug in lawn mower etc..
 
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you need to know where that socket gets its power from, and what rating the circuit's protective device is.

At the risk of sounding offensive (and i apologise in advance), i dont think you have sufficient knowledge to carry out this work safely.

A number of questions whose answers which may redeem you, if you can provide them, are:

1. what rating MCBs would you use in the shed CU?
2. What size cable would you sue, and how many cores?
3. how deep would you bury the cable?
4. What fuse rating do the garden lights require?
5. do you know the difference between a MCB and an RCD, and what they do?

There are more, but I suggest you get someone in who knows what they are doing. Do you know about part p? search this forum for it, as there are legal implications for this work.
 
Thnaks for your advice I wanted to know what I can do without getting a qualified Sparky, can you claify one matter, if I use 12v devices driven by a Tranformer will I be able to do this without getting a qualified electrician and also would i need to get a part p cert???
 
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whufc said:
Thnaks for your advice I wanted to know what I can do without getting a qualified Sparky, can you claify one matter, if I use 12v devices driven by a Tranformer will I be able to do this without getting a qualified electrician and also would i need to get a part p cert???

as far as i can tell, as long as none of the new devices are permenantly fixed to anything, and plug into a socket, it is not notifiable and doesn't need testing. And you can usually get away with this with 12V installations.
 

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