Oven hardwire or plug?

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Just bought a new single fitted oven. Existing one has a plug and plugged into a kitchen socket with red switch so i assume on its own circuit.
New oven has wire but no plug.
Where the oven is going i do see a open socket with some wires sticking out but i have no idea if live or not.

Can i put a plug on the new oven and just plug in or do i have to hardwire? the documentation says
Appliance must be connected to fixed wiring which has incorporated means of disconnection. Fixed wiring must be made in accordance with the wiring rules. whatever that means.

New oven

Hisense BSA65222PXUK​

Electrical Connection
3500 Watt
Oven Fuse Rating
16 amps
Power Cable Length
1.5 m
Power Requirements
Needs Hard Wiring By An Electrician
 
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Can i put a plug on the new oven and just plug in or do i have to hardwire? the documentation says
Appliance must be connected to fixed wiring which has incorporated means of disconnection. Fixed wiring must be made in accordance with the wiring rules. whatever that means.
Haven't you answered your own question?

If ovens can be plugged in they come with a fitted moulded plug.

Where the oven is going i do see a open socket with some wires sticking out but i have no idea if live or not.

Sounds like you need an electrician.
 
Im no expert so define hardwired which incorporates means of disconnection. unplugging is a means of disconnection. Hardwired doesn't ring out as easily disconnectable or incorporated.
I can disconnect my ceiling lights with a sledgehammer.
 
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Disconnection refers to isolation of the electricity supply to the appliance.
Hardwiring refers to fixed wiring to the appliance.
Your oven could be connected to a cooker circuit , if you have one.
 
Cant really see the picture, isn't a 6mm cooker circuit? If so fit an outlet plate and connect the flex to that.
 
The oven currently plugs in to a cooker socket under the sink which is next door. As per the poor photo there is an open socket with short wires which i would hope are not live. If i can hardwire into the oven socket then i can do. But if it needs hardwiring elsewhere it means getting a sparky in who i assume will charge 50-100 if straightforward. Which nothing usually is in this house. Will be easier to send oven back assuming they will take it unwrapped.
Cooker is on own fuse on board.
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Your oven can be hardwired into the load terminals of the red isolation switch,(which has a combined socket which is not controlled by the red switch).
The loose cable needs testing to determine if it is live ,and minimally should have its conductors terminated in individual, insulated terminal blocks ,or wago connectors. It may even be connected to the red isolation switch !!
 
Sorry terry, so you mean take the cover off the socket and i can connect to that red switch? or possibly the terminated cable could be in there and just reconnected then hardwire in the blank socket?
 
given there is no face plate and i assume i dont just use a plastic wiring block. What do you call the connector/faceplate i need to use?

The connectors i can see on screw fix either dont show the connector side or the ones that do only seem to have connections for one cable.
 
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Yes ,turn off power ,unscrew the socket/isolator from its mounting box and view the cable connections. If only one cable ,connect up your oven. If any cable is connected to the load terminals you would need to establish where it goes.
If it turns out to be the " exposed" cable in your pic ,you need a cooker outlet plate to be fitted there.
 
You need an electrician to test that circuit and to fit a cooker outlet. Dont take any risks....

I recently fitted a cooker for ex father in law. Cooker came like yours, no plug on the wire. It had to be hard wired into the cooker outlet under the worktop.....

 

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How do these connect? anyone recommend one from screw fix or toolbase as i have them near me but i cant see on their site what the backsides are.
 

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