I've had a look at topics posted already on the flooring, etc. topics and there doesn't seem to be anything that answers my question (although a very useful discussion on removing bitumen from the back of parquet tiles - thanks for that) so here goes. My husband and I need parquet flooring to put in our extension - other rooms on the ground floor already have it and so we want parquet throughout. We think the wood is merbau. Having got quotes from flooring companies, for them to supply (new) and fit is really more than we can afford. In our innocence we had thought it would be reasonably simple to buy reclaimed/salvaged blocks and use them or get our builders (who are pretty proficient at most things) or my husband, who is pretty good at DIY, to lay the floor. It seems though that there are so many considerations - looking on the web I think I'm now more confused than ever - eg letting the wood acclimatise to the room, making sure it's from one room (at ultimate source) so that wear will be similar on your second hand blocks, laying it so that it can 'move'/adjust/settle - just a few of the things we had never considered. So I guess my question is - is there a comprehensive overview we can get from anywhere that will provide advice or are we just fools to consider doing this ourselves and should we wait and save up to get a professional to do it? You guys seem to be a knowledgable bunch - any advice would be much appreciated.
overview of laying parquet flooring
- Thread starter becky8770
- Start date
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copied from our website as a first help for you:
"Solid Oak Nature/Rustic Wood Blocks
Design your own pattern: Herringbone, Double Herringbone, Basketweave, Mosaic, Bricks
N.B. advanced DIY-skills and tools needed. For best finish use (hire) professional sanding equipment, preferably with never-ending sanding-belt. For edges use professional edge-sander.
This product needs to be glued down on level under/subfloor (either concrete or chipboard or Industrial solid oak mosaic glued on concrete). When using subfloor make sure height differences are sanded down before installing pattern with the wood blocks.
Take your time to set out your pattern: first row is most important and will act as anchor for next rows. Give the first row sufficient time to bond with adhesive.
When installing pattern with border, complete pattern first and leave it for 10 - 12 hours. Cut excessive blocks with professional circular saw, remove excessive adhesive before installing strip and border. Again, give border sufficient time to bond with adhesive before sanding.
After installing the floor needs to be sanded properly.
1st Sanding with abrasive grit 40. 2nd Sanding with grit 80 and collect sand-dust. Mix sand-dust with woodfiller and 'plaster' on floor to cover all gaps.
3rd Sanding with grit 100 or 120 will remove excessive filler and will create smooth surface.
Apply finish product according to instructions on tin/can (for lacquer finish sand 4th time with grit 150).
N.B. Sanding mistakes will show after applying finish product
To calculate correct no of sq m needed, add 7 - 10 % for saw-waste."
"Solid Oak Nature/Rustic Wood Blocks
Design your own pattern: Herringbone, Double Herringbone, Basketweave, Mosaic, Bricks
N.B. advanced DIY-skills and tools needed. For best finish use (hire) professional sanding equipment, preferably with never-ending sanding-belt. For edges use professional edge-sander.
This product needs to be glued down on level under/subfloor (either concrete or chipboard or Industrial solid oak mosaic glued on concrete). When using subfloor make sure height differences are sanded down before installing pattern with the wood blocks.
Take your time to set out your pattern: first row is most important and will act as anchor for next rows. Give the first row sufficient time to bond with adhesive.
When installing pattern with border, complete pattern first and leave it for 10 - 12 hours. Cut excessive blocks with professional circular saw, remove excessive adhesive before installing strip and border. Again, give border sufficient time to bond with adhesive before sanding.
After installing the floor needs to be sanded properly.
1st Sanding with abrasive grit 40. 2nd Sanding with grit 80 and collect sand-dust. Mix sand-dust with woodfiller and 'plaster' on floor to cover all gaps.
3rd Sanding with grit 100 or 120 will remove excessive filler and will create smooth surface.
Apply finish product according to instructions on tin/can (for lacquer finish sand 4th time with grit 150).
N.B. Sanding mistakes will show after applying finish product
To calculate correct no of sq m needed, add 7 - 10 % for saw-waste."
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