PAINTING CHIPBOARD

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I'm sure you could make a success of this, but the beech veneer used would have to be sanded flat to remove polish etc and give a key for the fresh paint.
The final quality of the unit would naturally depend on a perfect paint finish, and for that I would be inclined to spray paint rather than brush.
Specialist paints are available to give hard surfaces, Rustoleum and Hammerite being two. It's worth a look at their web sites!
John :)
 
You could sand the veneer lightly to provide a key for a high grip primer like Dulux Super Grip, Zinsser Bullseye or B-I-N and then apply your chosen finish paint. This would give a better chance of the paint adhering but, as you suggest, you may still encounter chipping of the paint when the doors/shelves are opened. If you intend to store dvd's, cd's, etc., inside then I would consider just painting the visible exterior surfaces as the hard jewel cases are likely to damage the paint inside.

Maybe something like Diamond Hard floor paint would be a wise idea as a finish, if available in a suitable colour for you.
 
Thank you both for the replies.

I must confess, the words "spray paint" fill me with dread. Never used a sprayer, scared I'd make a mess of it, worried about breathing in the mist (I have severe allergies) ... so if there is a way to do it with a brush I would feel much more comfortable with that.

Ah yes Misterhelpful I never thought of just painting the exterior! How clever.

I should have mentioned that I cannot abide brilliant white and all my woodwork, including all the wainscoting in that room, are in antique white oil-based eggshell, which is almost cream, and if I paint the unit in bright white it would look horrid.

I believe the Diamond Hard is only available in brilliant white. Ronseal make a calico floor paint (I have it here in my office) but it's much too "beigey" to match my antique white woodwork.

Does the top coat matter so long as I use a proper primer?

LHL
 
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The topcoat doesn't really matter as long as it is relatively hardwearing because you know that it will be handled quite a bit.

The Diamond Hard floor paint is available in a number of colours, shown in this link:

http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/diamond-hard-floor-paint

That's not to say I think you should go with that product, but it was something that came to mind as being pretty hardwearing. An oil based eggshell should be suitably tough enough. ;)
 
Cheers, Mister.

I'll stick with my eggshell, as that's what's on the wainscoting and skirtings etc.

Edited to add: just bought the Zinsser Bullseye 123 primer via Amazon.

Wish me luck!

LHL
 
The Zinsser arrived. I am just steeling myself for having to sandpaper the entire outside of the unit. The prospect of this is horrible. I hate doing it and I hate the dust. Ugh.

Gotta be done though, apparently!

LHL
 
The Zinsser arrived. I am just steeling myself for having to sandpaper the entire outside of the unit. The prospect of this is horrible. I hate doing it and I hate the dust. Ugh.

Gotta be done though, apparently!

LHL

In theory, you don't have to sand the surface that you apply Zinsser Bullseye but I have found that on some shiny/melamine type surfaces it still doesn't adhere well directly, which is why I recommended a light sanding. It's up to you if you want to apply it without sanding, if you haven't already started doing so. ;)
 
The sides and top are very smooth and almost shiny. Better not to risk it.

How much sanding, and how hard do I have to rub?

What about skimming my electric sander over it?

LHL
 
You basically just want to take the sheen off the surface. A light sand with 180 or 240 grit sandpaper, either by hand or with a sander, should be enough. Just remember to remove all the dust before painting.
 
Update: I have now borrowed an electric sander, and am waiting for warmer weather so I can take it out in the garden and sand it there.

Got my Zinsser!
 

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