I have a large bathroom with a ceiling of 3" T/G boarding which has been covered in a dark gloss varnish.My wife wants a white finish bathroom and I have a choice of plaster boarding over and plastering or painting over the existing varnish.To rub down the varnish especially the Vee formed between the boards will take for ever.Is there a paint system that will go over this varnish after running a sander over the surface or will the paint tend to flake off in time.Help from the experts appreciated.
Painting over varnish finish
- Thread starter manxcat
- Start date
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B
Bespoke
Hi
Block of timber say 45mm x 45mm x 150mmm long wrap 80 or 100 grit sand paper around the block place corner of block in vee grove of cladding and away you go, sand for England in about a hour job done. Now take an electric sander and sand over the flat area of the panelling.
When the sanding is all finished and you have received your reward for sanding for England, wash all the cladding down with sugar soap this will remove any remaining residue.
Good high quantity oil based undercoat applied by bush to the vee groves the flat part of the cladding use a 100mm (4”) foam roller laying off the excess paint from painting the vee groves. You may need to apply two coats of undercoat. And flow by one or two coats of top coat. You may wish to consider using egg shell as the top coat but only use oil based paint this will lay off a lot better ( slow les brush marks ) than water based paint as it dries a lot slower and so is more self levelling.
You can see my other posting
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=774983#774983
Paint will only come adrift from the varnish if you don’t do a good job of the preparation and that means elbow grease, elbow grease and sanding for England, sorry no short cuts for good preparation. “If a jobs worth doing then its worth doing right”
Hears wishing you and your love one’s a very magical Christmas and a fantastic new year.
Block of timber say 45mm x 45mm x 150mmm long wrap 80 or 100 grit sand paper around the block place corner of block in vee grove of cladding and away you go, sand for England in about a hour job done. Now take an electric sander and sand over the flat area of the panelling.
When the sanding is all finished and you have received your reward for sanding for England, wash all the cladding down with sugar soap this will remove any remaining residue.
Good high quantity oil based undercoat applied by bush to the vee groves the flat part of the cladding use a 100mm (4”) foam roller laying off the excess paint from painting the vee groves. You may need to apply two coats of undercoat. And flow by one or two coats of top coat. You may wish to consider using egg shell as the top coat but only use oil based paint this will lay off a lot better ( slow les brush marks ) than water based paint as it dries a lot slower and so is more self levelling.
You can see my other posting
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=774983#774983
Paint will only come adrift from the varnish if you don’t do a good job of the preparation and that means elbow grease, elbow grease and sanding for England, sorry no short cuts for good preparation. “If a jobs worth doing then its worth doing right”
Hears wishing you and your love one’s a very magical Christmas and a fantastic new year.
Thanks Bespoke for your advice,had already thought that no gain without pain would be the answer.Have found out that Cuprinol do a satin varnish in 44 colours including white.They say it would be suitable for skirting boards etc,have you any idea if this would go over the existing varnish?If so there would not be any problem with separation would there or am I being an optimist.
B
Bespoke
Hi
To be honest I don’t know and I don’t know the product. But I would think this is an old product been re-branded for the diy market but as hand the gloss turned down and more colours add.
I would never use water based paint / varnish or stain over an oil based product common sense tells me one or both will be throwing there dummy out of the pram or picking up the ball and running home. So to be on the safe side I would stick to the tried and tested method.
Now think about the job first not the new fandangle things you would like to use or think it would be the shortest route and at the same time paying over the odds. You want to refurbish an old pine clad ceiling that as seen better days. And this ceiling is in an area of your home that will take a lot of stick from the steam.
You may find the product you are talking about as not got a solid colour and is designed to bring out the grain in the timber. Well your timber as no grain it’s been sealed by the varnish and if I am correct you may well be waiting your hard earned cash.
Have you thought of over cladding the ceiling with white upvc cladding no painting ever again?
To be honest I don’t know and I don’t know the product. But I would think this is an old product been re-branded for the diy market but as hand the gloss turned down and more colours add.
I would never use water based paint / varnish or stain over an oil based product common sense tells me one or both will be throwing there dummy out of the pram or picking up the ball and running home. So to be on the safe side I would stick to the tried and tested method.
Now think about the job first not the new fandangle things you would like to use or think it would be the shortest route and at the same time paying over the odds. You want to refurbish an old pine clad ceiling that as seen better days. And this ceiling is in an area of your home that will take a lot of stick from the steam.
You may find the product you are talking about as not got a solid colour and is designed to bring out the grain in the timber. Well your timber as no grain it’s been sealed by the varnish and if I am correct you may well be waiting your hard earned cash.
Have you thought of over cladding the ceiling with white upvc cladding no painting ever again?
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ok thanks will go and find suitable piece of wood and lots of sand paper and show my wife vwhat to do-some hopes but one can dream.Have thought of cladding over but want to fit eye ball lights and envisage problems cutting through two layers.Will try painting first.
B
Bespoke
Hi
You wont have any difficulty in cutting through two layers of board be one of plastic and one of wood. The important thing is to a good quantity hole-saw and the correct size to suite the down lighters. Cheap jack tools make for a Bodge-it and Scarper job. And buy using plastic cladding no joints to shrink open plus secrete fixing just a neat plastic trim around the edge.
Check out the drawing I have just done
http://www.alanwakefield.co.uk/manxcat.pdf
http://www.casupply.co.uk/acatalog/pvc_hollow_solid_cladding.html
Hollow "V" Groove Cladding
DH25 6M x 250mm Four "V" Hollow Cladding
Starter Trim For Hollow Cladding
You wont have any difficulty in cutting through two layers of board be one of plastic and one of wood. The important thing is to a good quantity hole-saw and the correct size to suite the down lighters. Cheap jack tools make for a Bodge-it and Scarper job. And buy using plastic cladding no joints to shrink open plus secrete fixing just a neat plastic trim around the edge.
Check out the drawing I have just done
http://www.alanwakefield.co.uk/manxcat.pdf
http://www.casupply.co.uk/acatalog/pvc_hollow_solid_cladding.html
Hollow "V" Groove Cladding
DH25 6M x 250mm Four "V" Hollow Cladding
Starter Trim For Hollow Cladding
B
Bespoke
You are very welcome
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