Patio Pointing

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Just laid a 33sq mtr patio with Antique Gold riven slabs from Stoneflair.
Due to the design of the slabs the gap between slabs ranges from 5mm to 20mm.
What can i use to butt these up and fill the gaps. Im at a loss as i hear that some wet mixes (preferred as not to create any future wobble or movement) can cause staining on the slabs.
HELP :?:
 
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it is essential you point the slabs on a dry day.

don't mix up a dry mix and brush-in 'cause it is total c**p. it will be lifting out in no time. this will leave a cement bloom on the surface anyhow. amateurish.

mix up some sharp sand and cement with a dash of soft sand for workability. don't mix it too wet, in fact, as dry as you can without it being to crumbly.

when we lay slabs, we solid bed and tease a mortar joint along side the slab as we go. this way the bedding mortar and the pointing are all connected as one.

solid. professional.
 
Cheers for that one Noseall,
Do you have an approximate ratio for the mix or is it as you say, not too wet.
What would happen if i dropped some onto the slabs ? would it stain if wiped straight away
 
3or4:1 is a good mix. using sharp sand, it'll set rock hard.

cement is very good at its job. it will mark or stain anything it comes into contact with. a stiff brushing with fairy liquid the next day helps a lot.
 
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I am not sure if I have understood your question correctly, but don't be relying on pointing to keep the slabs steady. It's just to stop dirt and small weeds settling there and to look nice.
 
WabbitPoo said:
I am not sure if I have understood your question correctly, but don't be relying on pointing to keep the slabs steady. It's just to stop dirt and small weeds settling there and to look nice.

don't be so sure WabbitPoo, the pointing will lock every thing up nice and tight. i have jack hammered enough slabs up to know for sure that by removing the pointed joints you make it a whole lot easier.

this applys to grouting on floor tiles, wall tiles, kiln dried sand on block paving and of course brickwork. ;)

don't underestimate good pointing. big mistake.

oh, and just one other small detail, it stops water getting into the joint and causing frost damage.
 
ok.
So 3/4 to 1 ratio of Sharp to Cement is good.
Whats the difference in using building sand as opposed to sharp.
 
the larger granules in sharp sand will provide a hard durable mortar with very little shrinkage. ideal for larger, patio style joints.
 
noseall said:
WabbitPoo said:
I am not sure if I have understood your question correctly, but don't be relying on pointing to keep the slabs steady. It's just to stop dirt and small weeds settling there and to look nice.

don't be so sure WabbitPoo, the pointing will lock every thing up nice and tight. i have jack hammered enough slabs up to know for sure that by removing the pointed joints you make it a whole lot easier.

this applys to grouting on floor tiles, wall tiles, kiln dried sand on block paving and of course brickwork. ;)

don't underestimate good pointing. big mistake.

oh, and just one other small detail, it stops water getting into the joint and causing frost damage.

Fair enough, but I guess what I was saying was that good pointing won't make up for inadequate slab laying.
 

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