Pattress (socket back box) chasing tool.

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Having already done 6 of these double sockets the old fashoined way by drilling round the outside and then getting to work with hammer and chisel/bolster, I remember once seeing an invention in one of those innovations magazines that involved some sort of drilling template to make the job easier.

Anyone know of this?
 
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Quite common, you'll find them in small independant wholesalers.

Personally I draw around the outline of the patress with a pencil, sett my depth gauge, drill round the edges, drill as many as I can in the centre and knock out the centre with an SDS cranked chisel (with roto-stop on, of course).

Does take a good 150 holes to get consistently good at it in any material though.
 
Depends how many you do, B&Q sell a plastic jig, or there are metal tools available from Screwfix among others that fit sds drills.
 
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You have to be careful with any type of tool that hammers its way in. It's just as likely to hammer the whole block out of position!
 
The hole cutters are fine in Thermalite blocks on a newly constructed wall. However since you can cut into those with a padsaw or stanley knife anyway, not much point in using the cutter there.

For anything else, there are 2 possible outcomes:
1. The tool is blunted and ruined within 10 seconds. The wall is not damaged.
2. A huge hole is created in the wall, with loose plaster falling out over a wide area, bricks coming loose and the brick you are cutting fracturing into 3 pieces. The resulting mess takes 10 times longer to repair than cutting the hole properly.

The jigs to guide a drill are also useless, since they just help with holding the drill staight and level.
If you can't hold a drill straight, what are you doing using it in the first place?

The best way is to:
1. Place box on wall, draw round it with a pencil
2. If the wall is plastered, use a stanley knife to cut through the plaster just outside of the pencil lines.
3. Drill holes at each corner first, then along the edges, then several in the middle.
4. Use a scutch chisel and hammer to remove the brick/plaster in the middle and to clean up the back/sides of the hole.

For those that don't know, this is a scutch chisel:
32490_1500370.jpg
 
The jigs to guide a drill are also useless, since they just help with holding the drill staight and level.
To be fair they also stop the drill from wandering, and most of all they allow you to drill the holes much closer together than you could by hand...

 
Oharaf, I have my roots in the Yorks Dales ,who is a southern jessie?I didnt say i used them, i prefer the old fashioned way.
 
Depends how many you do, B&Q sell a plastic jig, or there are metal tools available from Screwfix among others that fit sds drills.

and they are all sh1te!!!!! hammer and chisel do ity the Northern way you big southern jessy!!!!! ;)

London stocks respond well to SDS drill round cut out, flowed through by a 38mm chisel bit on the sds rota stop.

Why the feck would I want to spend 20 minutes with a hammer a bolster / scrutch when the sds takes 10 minutes start to finsih ?

It also allows my hands to remain soft and nice for play time with the girlie clients :D
 
Ther are a lot of engineering bricks around here, they play hell with the drills bits.
 
Round here I have a problem with Cob walls. They're made of any old rubbish that came to hand at the time of build. The number of times I end up creating huge holes in walls trying to get round lumps of flint is unbelievable. One of those box-chasers is utterly useless for that.
 
They are rubbish.

They don't work on anything but the softest bricks / blocks, and you'd be quicker doing them by hand or with an SDS chisel.

Hard brick / concrete etc, then stitch drill it and chisel out either with an SDS chisel or lump hammer and cold chisel / scutch / sash knife.

I find a hammer and chisel as quick as an SDS drill for chopping out after you have stitch drilled round the box, and it keeps you fit too. :D
 

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